walking holiday

Our walking holiday

Tuesday 14th August
On Saturday Paul and I will begin the start of our coast to coast adventure. We fly out of Sydney to Dubai via a brief stop in Bangkok. The temperature for Dubai is forecast to be a whopping 43 degrees!!!!!!!!! If we survive the flight and the heat and can get onto the net we will add more news when we arrive.

Wednesday 15th August
I am just testing to see if I can add more information to the site. After hours of searching I've found my missing page and I think I've got the hang of this now as long as my page doesn't disappear again.

Saturday 18th August
We are off. Hoorah !!!!!!!!!!
Great flight despite half hour delay leaving Sydney.

Sunday 19th
Arrived 5.30am to 35 degrees. Chauffer driven car to hotel. Took a bus tour of the beach area. Did plenty of walking. Nearly melted in the 43 degree heat. Already done two loads of washing. Dubai is one huge construction site and the traffic is chaos despite large freeways. Population is 1.2 million of which 80% are expats. 17% of the worlds cranes are being used in Dubai and Paul has made me walk passed them all! I don't think that I have to do the coast 2 coast as I have walked it here. We went to the gold souk (markets) Had difficulty finding a cab.

Monday 20th
Did the city bus tour. Walked around the old area of town. Did a trip on the river at sunset. Then
again walked home almost expiring several times along the way. Amazing architecture. More washing of clothes. Paul tried to cash a travellers cheque and it took almost one hour!

Tuesday 21st
A quiet day late rise caught cab to Deira city shopping centre strolled around shops only window shopping though main shops not open as undergoing renovation. Todays temp range 33 - 45 degrees for something different.

After all her hard work setting up this site Paul has taken over commentary from here and Syd denies any responsibility

We have decided to rename our trip as the adventures of "MUGG & BEAN" me being the mug and Syd has the nickname Bean anyway. This is a little coffee shop in one of the malls in Dubai.

Saturday 18th August 2007
Off at last!! We have waited a long time for this. We had a good trip to airport with Stu and Lachlan. Check-in a breeze. No problems with customs or with baggage. Plane delayed ½ hour spent time in Emirates lounge. Isn’t life hard!! 5 fully stocked bars free drinks and snacks choice hot foods. A very pleasant way to pass the time!!
Comfortable seats on plane cabin crew excellent very pleasant and helpful. Food great. Choice lobster and then prawns for dinner with sweets. Silver cutlery with plastic knives. Then cheese platter choice 4 wines champagne and port. Fresh flower on tray and in front of the cabin. Able to get some sleep.

Sunday 19/08/2007
Brief stop over in Bangkok barely enough time to stretch legs as trying to make up time. Then further comfortable flight to Dubai. That is until we came in to land. About 50 metres off the runway it was all power on and off we went again to circle and try again more luck this time. Great views of Dubai at dawn though!! Instant reminders of Saudi!!! People sleeping in airport lounge officials wandering around doing nothing but strutting their importance. No problems with customs or immigration.
Taken by chauffer driven car to Hotel. Emirates airlines seems very well organised and pleasant to deal with.
All round Dubai is one large building site. Countless buildings, streets being torn up nothing constant except change itself. After settling into our hotel room and a brief much needed snooze we walked or dragged ourselves to the nearby (although it didn’t seem that close when walking in 43 degree temperatures !!) shopping centre where we caught an open top bus to tour the sites of the beach area. Amazing amount of building and construction. Hotels, office spaces, parks, metro (very much needed as little or no public transport) hotels. Currently building 500 hotels expect 15 million visitors in 5 years time. Population 1.2 million, 80% of whom are expats who can’t own property or land in Dubai city and who must have an Emiratee partner for business who in turn owns 51% of the business. 17% of the world’s cranes are operating in Dubai at this point in time.
Very hot!!!!!! Although dry heat, it is still energy sapping. How the workers cope I don’t know. Even with a break between 1 and 4 pm in August, the hottest months. Trust us to pick those months to be here. Many new shopping centres many very exclusive. There are 37 malls in total. Shops upmarket but not really different to back home. People very pleasant and helpful will offer help if you seem stuck or lost in the street. Found our way back to the hotel after lunch and the tour rehydrated and set off into town. We wandered the old spice and gold souks, looking only no buying!! Crowded vibrant and busy. More relaxed than Saudi not everything stops for prayers and people generally more friendly and tolerant. Syd struggled in the heat but managed. Frequently stopping into small shops to recoup and use their airconditioning to cool down, before venturing out again on a dash to the next small shop. Finally found a cab and went back to our hotel. I had forgotten some medication and we ventured out to a local pharmacy and was able to replace my medications without a script. They only require a script for sedatives and analgesics the rest is over the counter. Had dinner in our hotel and crashed. Slept like a log literally not stirring at all.

Monday 20/08/2007
Woke feeling much better for the rest ready to face the world again. Had a full breakfast and attempted to cash some travellers cheques. Only took an hour. They wanted copy of receipt for travellers cheques wanted to know what I would use the money for and what I did use it for if not for that stated purpose and what was the source of funds used to buy the travellers cheques. All before I had even cashed them.
We caught a cab to the shopping centre where we caught the tourist bus and did the city tour. At the bus stop there were 2 men fighting about a cab issue the fight is interesting usng open hands in a slapping motion rather than clenched fists. Not much harm done. It is a dog, sorry cat eat cat world here (you don’t see any dogs only a few scrawny cats in the streets).Talk about a city of contrasts the old and the ultra modern. It must be difficult for the older inhabitants. Also good for the younger ones. There is a bonus of 57000 Dhm for the first marriage of 2 locals and 23000 for the second marriage of 2 locals. We also saw luxurious villas used as housing commission places for the “poor” . Lots of expensive cars, even a street where all the youths gather and pose with their expensive toys. All cabs are Toyota corollas.
We toured through the older parts of town including the souks and old kings (Sheikh Saeed Al Maktoum) residence and diving village. Dubai was only developed to any extent in the early 1800’s and became a city in 1907 or there abouts. Of course the real explosion occurred after oil was discovered in the 1970’s. The city is built around the creek which runs through the middle of town. It is an architect’s delight, no holds barred!! And I guess if money is no object you can do anything.
After completing the tour we returned to the shopping centre had lunch and caught a cab to the British embassy. Talk about mad dogs and Englishmen we then went walking the temperature was only 44 degrees but there was a slight breeze. We walked along the bank of the creek looking at all the new buildings and then marvelled at the old quarter of town with its narrow winding alleys and houses as well as the shops. Again we hopped from cool place to the next cool place. Syd almost expired on several occasions along the way. I think she was attempting to get out of walking in Britain.
There were scenic areas of restored houses and art galleries where we sheltered for a few minutes. Absolutely energy sapping and you broke out in a sweat at the thought of setting out walking. We retreated to the Dubai museum which was interesting and more importantly air-conditioned!!!! Toured the ruins of the old city fort and wall. Then we strolled, not enough energy to do anything more but stroll, through the souk. A place full of colour, old shops and scents of spices. There are clothing shops ,textiles, and rugs gold, jewellery, tourist souvenirs, antiques, coins and toys . Everything comes in any colour and any variety.

People come from all corners of the globe attired in all colours and forms of dress. Syd visited the chemist and was resuscitated with 3 glasses of water. We reached the banks of the creek as sunset neared and caught an abra for a cruise up the creek. A great way to get a different perspective on the city and quite pleasant at that time of the day with a slight breeze to dry the sweat. Ships and smaller boats bring all sorts of goods to town and these are unloaded onto the docks where everything sits for up to 5 days before being picked up and taken to where they belong. They sit right on the side of the road and in the middle of town without any security, police or protection and are totally safe. Indeed you feel completely safe here both personally and your goods are not always under threat. You rarely see the police at all.
We alighted on the other side of the creek and attempted to find a cab, but alas no joy. An older fellow suggested that it was a short walk only back to our hotel. I think he was anti tourist and anti western, and was doing his bit to wear the bastards down. We walked and walked about 90 mins all up again with frequent stops and dropping into any shop to “browse”. Finally we got back to the hotel and our friend had achieved his aim he had worn us down!!! Again we had dinner in our hotel after recovering from our day on the town. Another night of sound sleep.

Tuesday 21/08/2007
A quiet day. Breakfast and a chance to catch up on washing (you wash and shower after each excursion out of the hotel)and any correspondence etc. Dubai is fascinating and a land of complete contrast. We caught a cab to the nearby shopping centre and strolled around indoors window shopping and crowd watching. Had lunch and returned to the hotel for a quiet afternoon packing for early departure tomorrow. Still plenty of things you could do, maybe next time. There is no personal space here everyone crowds around and peers over your shoulder wanting to know your business. They become involved in any dispute each putting in their 2 pence worth. The locals seem polite but the workers mainly from the subcontinent are a different kettle of fish. Todays temperature range is 33-45 degrees a good day to take time out and stay inside for a while.
Just returned from dinner at the “mugg and bean” a little restaurant in the nearby shopping mall. The workers here work 12 hour shifts and construction work continues around the clock. The shops close in the afternoons and reopen in the evening. Everyone comes out at night and life begins then. The shops and malls are crowded but I don’t know how the demand will continue with all the growth. There must be a limit! I already wonder how all these small businesses stay solvent many restaurants are empty at times. I guess the low wages for staff offset that somewhat and there are no state taxes but food is cheap also. Still hot outside. Cant access the internet at the hotel frustrating. People do not respect others personal space and crowd in and push past everyone to get to the front.
Tomorrow we set off early to go to UK what a contrast. More then

Wednesday 23/08/2007
Up early, all packed, small breakfast, panic of making sure everything is in hand. Caught chauffer driven car to airport. Arrived to pick us up 20mins early. Driving here is chaotic and noisy everyone uses their car horn all the time but despite that it seems safe as everyone expects the unexpected and compensates accordingly. Arrived at airport checkin interesting. A large man was arguing with the staff he opened his bags left them open in the middle of the check in area on the floor and went off elsewhere to argue his case. In other places his luggage would have gone by the time he returned. Syd was frisked by customs after being told she was cute by the security man. Airport crowded, nice to retreat to the relative quiet of the Emirates lounge. Lots of people about some sleeping, some sitting, lounges , full. Small smoking areas scattered through airport with glass partitions but smoke just billows over the top of these. Very effective?? Time passed quickly.
Just our luck, when we are leaving, the colder weather arrives.. It is expected to only reach 40 degrees today. Meanwhile we expect to arrive in London with 19 degree temperatures. More then.
Had a good flight to London. Again friendly staff, good food choice wines etc. Comfortable flight circled for some time before landing. No problems getting through airport. Sign of the times, all immigration officers came from NESB waited 30 mins or so and caught bus to hotel. Lots traffic crowded streets also but much cooler. Dropped off at hotel seems plenty comfortable reasonable size room airconditioned, right next to Euston Station so well positioned. Unpacked went for stroll around local area. Passed University Hospital new large then stopped at local pub had a beer and then diner. Pleasant good crowd. One patron didn’t know where Australia was. “Was it near India?”No! It is quite a way from there but it is over that direction.”Is it near New Zealand then?” Oh well!! Food not bad typical pub food good quantity about 6 pound a meal on average. Strolled home quiet night again rewarded with a good sleep.

Thursday 23/08/2007

Up and down to breakfast. Raining and overcast but not cold. Walked to British Museum. Strolled through University of London grounds past school of tropical medicine and hygiene. Met Rowy (Syd’s cousin) at Museum. Impressive building and vast array of displays. Had morning tea and wandered through some exhibits including Assyrian and Egyptian and Roman/Grecian exhibits then the African display. Interesting that the Assyrian exhibits depict the king conquering foreign lands and sacking the towns carrying of anything of value, which is just how the British acquired and got to keep these actual exhibits for which the museum is renowned. The exhibits are beautiful and so old. The Assyrian sculptures date to about 800 BC while the Egyptian hieroglyphics go back as far as 2500 BC. The Roman and Grecian sculptures are much more modern. There are some sculptures that once graced the top of the Parthenon. Even saw the Rosetta stone.
We then headed off, the rain now tumbling down. The small streets and rambling lanes crowded with tourists and workers scurrying about town. Lots of buses, mostly double deckers. The typical red bus, with a more modern face but still a London icon!! Lots of flower boxes in full bloom adorn light poles and pub/building walls. Talk about Sydney’s streets being narrow and ramshackle they are large highways by comparison to some of the London backstreets. We wandered on down to Trafalgar square and then along Pall Mall and up to Piccadilly circus, Crowds and traffic jams everywhere. Also saw the typical red post boxes and telephone boxes that still exist along the streets. Then along Regent street, calling in to check out Hamleys toy shop and along Oxford Street.
Found “Paul Rothe and son” a small delicatessen in North London. Met my alter ego of similar age. Informed him of the need for a name change in view of the fact that we have 2 sons not one. Warmed the inner man with some soup and tea/coffee. Then after a brief respite back into the rain. We searched high and low along Oxford St and Tottenham Court Road for an internet access prepaid card which we were promised could be picked up anywhere. But not so. We didn’t have a UK bank account for a credit check and other places had no idea what we wanted. Could only access the net through the mobile phone or sign up for 12 months if they could do a credit check. Alas, back to the rain sodden streets by now the rain bucketing down in sheets. Trudged home to our hotel stopping briefly for a beer and to wipe the rain from our eyes.
Dried out at the hotel and then caught a cab to meet up with a dear friend from our Saudi days. Great to catch up with him and share tales of days gone by. Some friendships remain, despite all the years that pass they are easily resumed where they left off. The night all the more enjoyable with some good food and wine. By now the rain had stopped after all we were no longer walking.We retreated to our hotel for the night. More tomorrow.

Friday 24/08/2007.
Still overcast but not raining an occasional spit but nothing else.
Had breakfast and spent some time sorting out our mail and updating our blog site while we have access to the internet though connection not 100% reliable and this is frustrating. We are learning all the time in more than 1 way. We wandered off into town. Caught underground train from Euston to Bank station. Helpful staff at station and clear announcements for station stops etc. Sydney trains could learn a bit from them. Strolled around the business end of town and around St Pauls cathedral not cheap at all. Food dear and drinks likewise. 250 pounds for dinner with Mike and Charlie the other night. 9 pounds to get into St Pauls each that is.
We walked down to the millennium bridge and crossed to the south bank and strolled along there back to Westminster. Lots of people about varied entertainment about. The queue for the London eye was 15 mins just to buy a ticket then 45 mins to get on. 15 pounds entry 25 if you want to jump the queue. Didn’t wait. Crossed over the Thames, passing the Houses of Parliament amazing structure the intricate stonework and glasswork and then there is Big Ben. Lots of security cameras everywhere and many policemen some with machine guns. Large concrete blocks cross the streets.
We wandered on through leafy tree lined streets and around the Dean’s park at the back of Westminster Abbey. Lots beautiful old buildings, narrow streets. We walked a little further on and caught a cab home to the hotel. A simple glass of wine costing 5 pounds.
Had dinner at the nearby pub which was beautifully adorned with lots of hanging flower baskets. A mix up with the booking meant we missed out on eating at Jamie Oliver’s Fifteen restaurant. Very disappointing.
By now the sun threatened to appear. A quiet night and off to bed early.

Saturday 25/08/2007.

Again slow start spent morning packing and getting ready to go north. Dragged ourselves and our luggage to the station. Thank goodness it wasn’t far. Consistent with our luck he sun was now shining. We orientated ourselves and changed some travellers cheques at a charge of 8% commission not bad money, I wish work was that easy!! But necessity demanded it as it is bank holiday weekend.
Large crowd swarmed onto the train fortunately we had first class tickets. The train left precisely on time. We streaked through the London suburbs past Wembley looks impressive from a distance. We then reached the countryside. Lots green fields with crops and large country residences. Passed through several larger towns/cities and finally arrived at Lancaster slightly later than expected. All round a smooth and comfortable trip. Dragged our bags over to the correct platform and rushed onto the train to St Bees a smaller 2 carriage affair. No luggage racks struggled to find a place for everything. Travelled through some beautiful countryside lots tidal estuaries and holiday retreats small villages and hills with small towns everywhere. Travelled along the Cumbrian coast past Sellafield and into St Bees. Arrived late, still light though and checked into Stonefarm cottage.

The first trains ran through St Bees in 1848. Stonefarm Cottage was built in 1712. And guess what we were located on the second floor. Trudged up with all our luggage. Comfortable but several low points though as the top of my head testifies.
St Bees is quite an attractive little town. Very busy because of the long weekend and end school holidays. Wandered up the main street had dinner in the local pub. Leakage from the taps in the upper floor while we were sitting in the bar. Humungous servings of food everything comes with chips. Filled the gaps though. Strolled around the streets which are lined with flower boxes multiple cute small cottages. Beautiful sunset. We finally returned to our room and repacked everything sorting it out for more efficient packs. Slept reasonably well.

Sunday 26/08/2007

Up at comfortable hour. Bit worried about what lay ahead of us. How would we cope could we do it????? Beautiful day sun shining not cold but reasonably strong breeze in places. Huge breakfast could only deal with ½ portions.
Then we could delay no longer. We had to face our worst nightmare. Backpacks on and off we set. Strolled through town. Saw St Bees local school established in 1583 and had extensions added many years later. Beautiful buildings and grounds. Then onto St Bees priory/church. The first church being built in the 800’s then it was rebuilt by the Normans circa 1160 the west wall still standing. The church was rebuilt in the 1850’s. In 1981 they excavated a body buried in a lead coffin. The body was remarkably well preserved and is known as St Bees man. It is probably the body of Anthony de Lucy, lord of Cockermouth, who died abroad while on crusade in 1368. Lots ancient burial sites and gravestones. We just don’t have that history in Australia!
We walked through the streets to the car park on the “beach” that is a pebble lined shore with strong winds but at least the sun was shining. We did the traditional wetting of the boots in the Atlantic water and picked a stone to transport to the East coast the most difficult decision being to find something small enough to carry all that way.
Then the walk began with a climb up a 200 foot cliff. Not the best way to start!!!! But got there without too much heartache. Lots of walkers at this stage but they thinned quickly. Many people taking their dogs for a walk around this section.

Most people friendly and conversational slowing or progress much to our delight. Still lots of flowers in bloom, boats on the ocean. Along the cliff tops we went up and down and up and down feeling all at sea like the boats we saw bobbing around in the ocean. Passing through farmers fields and talking to the sheep which came in all varieties and sizes. They were often very talkative as we stirred them up. Beautiful views with the sun out. The cliffs are quite spectacular, rocky and rugged. We just missed the puffins which breed along these areas. We finally reached the lighthouse and took time out for lunch.
We carefully walked around the cattle and especially a large bull which shared the paddock we walked through. Spectacular sites looking across at Whitehaven as we traversed the narrow track along the steep cliff tops. Always aware of the possibility of tripping if we didn’t watch our step or if the gust of wind got the better of us. On one side the farmer’s crops ran to the track on the other side steep cliffs and dense grass/undergrowth. The heather was in full bloom. The walking surfaces varied enormously. Open sealed roads, small narrow tracks surrounded by dense grass, open dirt tracks others tunnels through tree-lined lanes. We wandered through farm yards and barns. We struggled over various forms of style and gate as varied in type as the surfaces we walked on. All very interesting and you could see your destination in the distance which encouraged you to persevere. We stopped and revived ourselves with a soft drink at Sandwith. Carried on and returned to St Bees after 10 kms hard walking. Again caught some views of the town and recovered in our room.
We are getting our act together and have things sorted out re clothing, what to carry, wear etc. We are happy with how we pulled up after today but this is only 3% of the walk, lots more to come. Slightly longer distance tomorrow but similar degree difficulty. More then.
Dinner at the old station. Had to wait 30 mins because we didn’t order entrees. Again food good also reasonably expensive. Will sleep well tonight but I think we can do this!!! If no blisters etc or injury. Absolutely beautiful countryside and we were blessed with the weather today.

Monday 27/08/2007

Up extra early as Syd keen to get everything organised and underway. Had breakfast and got all our gear packed and sorted out. 2 bags to be stored 2 to be transported. Can we go with the bags?? Please? The sun poked its head out at times throughout the day and thankfully it remained dry and pleasantly cool.
Having got our act together we set out back along the low track adjacent to the rail line. Then onto the track proper. We waded through the cow poo which was everywhere. We came across several locals one strange fellow in particular walking the fields with his dogs. We were worried he was the modern version of Jack the Ripper haunting us. We again traversed all types of gates and styles. We managed to find our way to Moor row despite poor directions and a longish climb. You could easily get diverted if you couldn’t read a map. There were thankfully several helpful locals to help assist us and everyone was extremely friendly. We rolled into Cleator and found a little pub for a loo stop and a bite to eat as well as some liquid refreshment.
Backpacks on and off we set. Again could have missed the turn and gone the wrong way but found the right path with more assistance. We climbed out of Cleator and through the farm yards onto a small road which we followed for a couple of miles stopping at a stone bridge to watch the river and eat some fruit. Then the climb began in earnest. We were passed by a chap driving up the hill in his car with his 3 dogs following running all the way before he gathered them up and drove them home downhill. One way to keep fit! We reached the end of the road literally and had to traverse a large hill. We changed direction several times one when we came to a steep cliff again not well signposted. We came over the top of the crest and there in the distance was Ennerdale Bridge. Again absolutely beautiful countryside. We scurried slowly on down the track Syd almost asking for a lift with a farmer who was mowing his fields. We arrived at 1530 and rested up before showering and wandering around the village not large by any means and it didn’t take long. Some aches and pains 2 small blisters only which we will patch up before tomorrow. Still lots flowers in the fields and the house gardens are pretty also.
We had dinner in the hotel. Again good size servings. And good quality food. Mains about 8 pounds each. Local ale pretty good also. Our bags had arrived we crept upstairs to our room. Why are our rooms always on the top floor??? Tired so to bed early .

Tuesday 28/08/2007
Up early. Had breakfast at 0700 some trouble with diarrhoea so small portions. Packed and on the road by 0830. Meandered along the small lanes and roads to the end of Ennerdale water. Then took the narrow irregular track along the edge of the lake climbing steeply over anglers rest and continuing to the top of the lake. Again difficult to follow the directions as many tracks were supposed to be closed. We came across a youth hostel camp and availed ourselves of the toilet before carrying along up the valley. The miles seem so long here and we eventually, after much forlorn hope came upon the black sail youth hostel. We made a cup of tea and had some free fruit cake. The most delicious cuppa ever probably driven by our desperation and need. Clouds gathered but no rain. Temperature also not too bad. Then on from the YHA hut. A passer-by/fellow walker scaring the tripe out of us saying he hadn’t been able to find the path we wanted and it didn’t appear on his topographical map anywhere. His next comment was that it was a long distance to Rosthwaite. We had visions of being stuck on the mountains for the night and retreating to the hut at the last moment.
We gathered ourselves and went down what we thought was the right path and after some nervous and long minutes found the right track heading up over Loft Beck. The climb is very steep and the part of the track we had feared most. We had already walked 9 miles before attempting it but it was infact probably the easier part of the day. We got up the climb completed in1 hour with multiple stops. We clambered over shale and irregular loose rocks which made footing difficult. The secenery was spectacular clouds but still no rain. The views were also magnificent. You could see back down to Ennerdale water and around to Buttermere lake and all the tall peaks that make this area so special. We continued to climb to the top of Honister Pass and through the slate mine which is still working today. The life of a slate miner must have been incredibly difficult in days gone past. Hard enough just doing the work on these dangerous and very steep slopes, without having to take into account the weather snow and rain etc at any time!!
Eventually we could see in the far distance the valley of Rosthwaite and Seatoller. The descent down from Honister Pass seemed eternal. We meandered down the slate train track and along the road and around bridleways. We just never seemed to get any closer. The last 3 miles in particular were everlasting. We were tired and just wanted to get “home”. We finally got to our B&B at Rosthwaite at 1900 hours. Exhausted and sore in unexpected places. Chaffing being the major problem. Minimal blistering and the jelly legs we expected to develop didn’t eventuate. We are convinced that the waking poles help in this respect enormously. The hardest part was the long descent when tired, and over small loose slate rocks/pebbles which risk injury or a turned ankle late in the day.
But we survived, proud of our efforts. As we took our boots off at our B&B there was the finest sprinkle of rain. We have been just so lucky. Dry all the way so far. It would have been so much more difficult today if it had been raining or the clouds were low at the time and vision difficult. We submerged into a shower which we couldn’t operate properly and after a brief respite we gathered what remaining strength we had and walked a ½ mile into the town and had dinner at the local Hotel. Quite pleasant, helped by being hungry +++. Then meandered back in the dark and literally fell into bed. More torture tomorrow but not for as long. The countryside is inspiring and we are in the pick of it at present. Lots of good photos, well we think so at least but the interest waned as we got tireder. I can see why Wainwright talked about it in such glowing terms and loved this area so much. Less flowers and shrubbery as expected on the alpine areas but still awe inspiring. What will we see tomorrow as we move to Grassmere? Hopes of a good night’s sleep and pleasant dreams not one of the nightmares of climbing Loft Beck!!!!! Been there done that!

Wednesday 29/08/2007
Woke feeling somewhat better. Less aches and pains and we had slept well. Again packed and got everything ready for the day. Had breakfast (Syd avoiding the cooked breakfast as she has had an upset tummy for a few days). Again the day was magnificent sunny pleasantly warm and just what we wanted. Having patched ourselves up we set off about 0900. We marched down the road which quickly turned to a track and which also began to climb almost immediately. The climb persisted , not too difficult initially but becoming steeper all the time. We left the pleasant rock wall fenced paddocks behind and below, far below and climbed into the snow line. Up and up!! And Up!!. The climb stuttered with stops for water, catching of breath, taking photos, or at least that was the excuse and just sheer awe of the area. So beautiful, green and no noise except for the wind ( strong at times ) the birds and the RAF doing its low level runs. We saw several harriers/tornados and a helicopter rushing along the valleys doing low level flights. We actually looked down on them as they whistled along the contours of the valleys.
The climb continued, worsened by the loose slate rock underfoot making each step one to be thought about. We finally climbed hand over fist up the rockside of Lining crag where we were afforded spectacular views ( you will have to see the movies and the slides- boring) looking down to where we were heading ( Grassmere ) in the distant valley( always much much further than it looks) and back to the Honister pass and areas where we had passed already. The fields are so green the rock wall fences and English oak and birch trees make for beautiful scenes.
We finally reached the saddle after lunch ( water, chocolate bar, banana ) and commenced our descent slowly but surely. The problem was that you descended and then climbed to a crag top to make up for what you had descended. The approach to Grassmere stretched out before us. There were several crags to conquer before we finally reached Helm Cragg. Our knees and feet were sore and we were tired. It seemed to go on forever ( heard this story before?)Then we started a steep descent into Grassmere proper. One’s progress delayed by the loose shale rocks underfoot and the steepness of the descent. Stressful on all joint and tendons and they were starting to feel it. Again I don’t believe that we could have gotten this far without or walking poles they save so much stress on your muscles and joints and provide stability and security when tired. Fortunately the days are long and there was plenty of light even till we arrived at 1830 hrs. Yes you guessed it again our room was out in the garden area and also on the second floor. The bags seemed extra heavy today The weight mainly in the laptop and battery chargers for cameras etc.
A slow shower, couldn’t go faster and had to struggle to get your legs over the edge of the bath, and then a stroll down the public footpath to the local pub where we had a delicious meal and rehydrated ourselves. Felt almost ¼ human again. Walked back in the dark and after doing some housekeeping we fell, literally, into bed. Bet we don’t dream too much tonight. Too tired even for that!!

Thursday 30/08/2007

Relatively late start. Had slept well and the room was comfortable. The Guesthouse is run by the Quakers and is part of a conference and meeting centre. We were a bit worried when a “volunteer in residence” greeted us at breakfast. We would have been more thankful if an ambulance greeted us. We were feeling stiff and sore. The meal was pleasant if not a bit meagre. A shot-glass for the juice and the cooked breakfast came served on a bread and butter plate. We were seated at a table with 4 others and had to keep asking for more supplies (tea, toast, marmalade and butter etc). After breakfast we enjoyed strolling around Grasmere. On our way into town we had to stand back and give way to the cattle as they marched along the street moving from one paddock to the next. A long queue of walkers and cars having built up behind them. Grasmere is a pretty little town with lots of hotels and quaint stone cottages. While they look pretty and have a spectacular location they would require a lot of maintenance both in work hours and pounds spent!! Again many are holiday homes for the Londoners. In Rosthwaite the lady we stayed with was the last local left as all the houses had sold to out-of-towners. Many of the houses lay empty most of the year. A small lake nearby adds to the attractiveness of the place. Everyone here seems to be out walking their dog they go everywhere. Even saw a dog in the pub last night and today saw a hook for a dog lead outside a shop.
The weather started miserably but the clouds blew away and there were patches of sun although it was cool at times especially out of the sun. We meandered through the shops collected some post cards and cashed some travellers cheques. Much easier than in Dubai and cheaper than in London only 3 pounds commission. We had a cup of tea and sat watching the world pass by reading the paper. It was good to catch up on things, as there is no radio or television in our current accommodation. We walked down town visiting the cemetery where William Wordsworth was buried and the toured the house ( Dove cottage)that he lived in from 1799-1808. The rooms dark and stuffy let alone small and cramped. I would have a permanently sore back from stooping to avoid the low ceilings. Wordsworth’s house began life as a pub first built in 1617. The church was also first built in the 1300’s and contains headstones dating back to 1855 that we could see. On our way back to the guesthouse we sampled, and highly recommend, a local ice cream. Deeelicious
We spent some quiet time back in our room enjoying the day off. T allowed our imbs and joints to recover somewhat. Syd has decided not to walk tomorrow, I will give it a try if the weather allows. The evening was beautiful as the sun went down but the wind was chilly. Had dinner at a local restaurant again good food washed down with a lemonade and a little wine. Generally the meal servings are quite large and almost everything comes with chips nice to get a salad instead at times. The average main meal would cost 10 pounds or so. Petrol is 1 pound a litre. A glass of wine costs 3-5 pounds while a beer is about the same. A cup of tea is also about 2-3 pounds.

Friday 31/08/2007
Woke early, the rain falling in sheets and the clouds hung low around the hills, vision was poor. We hurried across to breakfast and ate well. The chef was having a hissy fit shouting and complaining in the background. We then returned and packed our things. I had decided not to walk as you couldn’t see the hills that we were to walk across, discretion being the better part of valour??
We walked into town, avoiding the cow rush hour today! The rain continued and we tried unsuccessfully to access the internet before strolling through a gallery purchasing a print of the area. Then over the road to the bus-stop. We caught an open top bus to Windermere, the rain still falling and the trees rushing over the top of the bus. Talk about mad dogs and Englishmen. No sun though, rain clouds and strong wind took their place. The bus passed through Ambleside, a pretty old town with lots more quaint old stone buildings. We then rolled on into Windermere, where we had lunch and connected to the internet, allowing us to catch up and do some business. Caught up with Stu as well. Had lunch, a burnt omelette and a scone with a warming cuppa. We then wandered back uphill to the station where we caught the bus to Glenridding high up in the hills again. The roads are very narrow and windy. At one point a car almost disappeared in to the rock wall trying to avoid the bus as it rounded a corner it was half buried in the trees and brush on the side of the road. The clouds had started to clear on this side of the mountain. We checked into the guest house also, on the top floor. Nothing new in that. Easier to carry the bags up today though! The problem is that the stairs are so steep and narrow.s
Patterdale is a small village on the edge of a small lake surrounded by hills. Glenridding is adjacent and no bigger in size. Our guest house is in the middle of the village overlooking the lake if you could get a view. Our room is small, no room to swing a cat because the cat couldn’t even fit into the room. You planned every step to move around it. But the bed seems comfortable. We strolled along the lake shore and were impressed with the scenery. Rock / stone walls large, oak trees, mown fields and large houses. Sheep grazing in the paddocks, old churches and sailing boats on the lake. We walked down to Patterdale and sampled a locally brewed ale before walking back into Glenridding. We walked the back streets, sat watching the sunset on the hills and today the sheep paraded along the street not the cows. Had a quiet evening before going next door for dinner. Syd had half a sheep plus a kilo of mash potatoes while I had roast turkey and the same amount of boiled potatoes . Walked all the 20 yards back to our guesthouse and resumed our housekeeping duties before sleeping well. Back to walking again tomorrow? Must we??. Hope the weather remains better than today.

Saturday 01/09/2007
Slept reasonably well, despite the small room, which was quite claustrophobic and had no view. The bed was at least comfortable. Down to breakfast, which wasn’t the best. The milk was off and the food not as nice as usual. I set off immediately at 0830 while Syd had a bit of time to spend before catching the bus.
I climbed out of Patterdale, having retraced my steps there and slowly made my way up out of the valley. The views of the valleys are quite spectacular with the oak trees mown fields and the whole place being so green. I reached the saddle in an hour and then continued the climb circling around and passing angle tarn. I rolled up and down the valleys slowly and with many, frequent stops. The clouds started to roll in slowly initially from the West and gathered speed. I had little difficulty following the track most of the time but it is unclear at other times. And the thought of being lost on the lofty mountains wasn’t entertaining at all. By now the vehicles far below in the valleys were like tiny ants. With more stops I finally reached High St where the Romans marched their troops up to Penrith. Why they would choose that route though, beats me. You would just have to sit and wait for them because they would be exhausted getting there let alone then fighting. As I turned off High St and headed to Kidsty Pike (2560 feet), which was the high point of the whole walk, the clouds overtook me and I was enveloped in a fog. Fortunately there was no rain and it blew away quickly. Far below lay Haweswater a manmade lake.
From Kidsty Pike it was a long steep descent following an identifiable path but there were no steps. Very demanding on your legs!! Finally I made it to the shores of Haweswater lake. Stopped briefly for lunch, 2 bananas and a half a chocolate bar, washed down with some cool water. The walk around the shore of Haweswater was long and difficult. The track irregular and wet, for it had showered lightly on and off coming down the slopes. The bracken crowded the track, and you climbed up and down as you went, creeping across ledges of fallen slate and other rocks. The track sloped sideways also to make things more difficult. On the other side of the lake was Haweswater hotel which was threatened when the dam wall was raised. You also walked around small forest plantations and then finally reached the dam wall. From there the directions were more unclear, I asked one little old lady how to get to Bampton Grange. She offered me a cup of tea and a lift. She had lived there for 10 years but didn’t know how to get where I wanted to go. Glad I didn’t take up the offer of the lift, don’t know where I would have ended up!!!So we marched next door and asked the man splitting wood. I trudged on along the small back country road lined with high rock walls and surrounding green fields filled with sheep. I crossed several quaint rock bridges running over small rivers and streams. I finally reached Bampton Grange, Syd sitting on the balcony of the hotel waiting patiently.
While Paul was walking I caught the bus to Yanwath Cottages and that was about all that was there. I was left in the middle of nowhere for 2 hours waiting for the next bus to Bampton Grange. The only pub didn’t open for one and a half hours so I walked and waited and eventually the lady from the pub felt sorry for me and brought out a cup of tea for me. The second bus was a little bus with only me and a man with his dog and 2 young boys. The boys turned out to be the driver’s sons who he was babysitting during the holidays. The driver dropped me off right at my turn off after making sure that I knew where I was going. Paul found me sitting on a balcony taking in the view.
Amazing how a shower and a few minutes rest can make one almost instantly human again. The knee pain and foot aches and now a couple of small blisters seemed to disappear. The room was again upstairs the bed small and the room likewise. Again the shower was miniscule but at least the water warm! We had a couple of shandies and went for a walk around town, again small with quaint old buildings. We were almost immediately opposite the church and the church bells tolled every 15 minutes. I think we heard every chime through the night.
We ate in the pub ( the Crown and Mitre) had to wait a long time but the food was good, mushroom soup and chicken stir fry – both delicious. Off to bed but couldn’t sleep well as you lay awake afraid you would fall out of bed, it being so narrow!
Sunday 02/09/2007
We woke, to find the clouds low and the rain tumbling down. We had breakfast and prepared to head off. We headed off across the church yard and crept along the small river to a farmhouse some 1-2 miles away. The rain still tumbled down, it was hot and sweaty in the wet weather gear. After a couple of wayward excursions we found our way across a small stone bridge crept over the crest of the hill and there was Shap abbey, or at least the ruins of it. Impressive structure built in the 1100’s. We then climbed out of the valley and followed the road to Shap. Had a quick drink to rehydrate and the negotiated the crossing of the train line and the M6 motorway. The high tension power lines buzzing in the rain. From there we crossed more fields and came around a large quarry, going the wrong way, before heading over the moors. Remote and quiet, apart from the wind and the odd bird. The moors filled with heather in full bloom, really very attractive. Crossing Tree X, the boulder and later one of Robin Hood’s graves sites (there seem to be many of these). By now the rain had stopped and the clouds were lifting. The path varied and the signs were misleading in places. We came to the end of the moor and climbed to a ridge from where we could see Orton in the distance. The walking was generally much easier and less strenuous, quite pleasant. We finally reached the town of Orton. Suddenly we arrived in the middle of some houses out of the middle of a field. There are lots of small streams and rivulets running through front and back yards of houses. Very picturesque! We finally found our accommodation at the” Barn House”. For something different we were at the very top of the house. We lugged our bags all the way up to our room which was large airy and comfortable. The bed much larger, longer and more comfortable. We were greeted with a cuppa and scone which went down very well. The guesthouse had several beautiful quilts on the walls, one a picture of owls which sent Syd berserk. I can see a future project coming on! Again we rehumanised with a much appreciated warm shower and did some washing before strolling/ limping/hobbling back into town, to the pub where we had dinner. A delicious roast beef and Yorkshire pudding and scampi sorted us out pretty quickly. Not a scrap left on the plates.
We fell into bed early and slept very well. A similar walk faces us tomorrow. More then.

Monday 03/09/2007
We woke to a glorious day, the sun shining but a wind blowing which made you cool when you stopped. Light breakfast of poached eggs and fruit then we hit the road again. We started off at 0900 and rambled along the road before starting across the fields, coming in close contact with the locals, sheep cattle and others. We passed Gameslands stone circle originally containing over 40 granite boulders. We crossed fields, passed along small paths, up and down dales and across heather clad moors. Really attractive!!! We were entertained by the RAF who were flying around practicing their exercises, hovering, straffing and flying in circles passing overhead at low altitudes. There were several helicopters and jets trying to outdo each other.
We circled around ourselves passing around more stone wall fences and around the moors suddenly dropping down suddenly into Scandal beck. We crossed the river traversing Smardale Bridge. On the mountain/hillside you could make out the impressions of the “Giants Graves”. They are actually pillow mounds but are of uncertain origin. They were possibly rabbit warrens constructed after they were introduced by the Normans. We trudged uphill again along a stony track and were confronted by the sudden appearance of Smardale Viaduct, which crossed the valley below as part of a now disused railway. An impressive structure for something now going nowhere!! We crested the hill and as usual, far in the distance, lay Kirkby Stephen our destination for the night. We still had several miles to go though. We crossed further fields and under the current railway and continued to descend into the valley chased all the way by the RAF who continued their sorties overhead. The weather remained fantastic and I guess they were making the most of it as well.
We reached our destination about 1625 hours. Again a hot shower was the first order of the day. But we had one last climb to do. The guesthouse was homely and the staff friendly/family like. We were again up steep narrow stairs but our room was large and had several beds. Unfortunately there were no windows that opened. The shower and bathroom were large enough and the water warm, one’s priorities become skewed on a trip like this. We happily consumed the cup of tea proffered on arrival. Then after ablutions we wandered into town. Kirkby Stephen is a smallish town of 25,000 or so. The narrow streets and buildings attractive as usual. Had dinner in the Coast to Coast fish and chip shop which featured in the BBC documentary on the walk. You had to creep through the cooking section to get to the tables and seating area. The food was consumed eagerly and tasted good as well. Again we wandered the back streets aware of the youth who were likewise wandering the streets with nothing else to do. Not feeling entirely safe. Again very impressed by the history and old quaint buildings. We returned to our room and watched some tele and read the paper before retiring for the night. Slept restlessly but the night passed quickly.

Tuesday 04/09/2007
Up and off. Had good breakfast and I got my act together and set off at 0900. Down the back streets of Kirkby Stephen and across Frank’s Bridge. Then the long climb began. Continuous climbing for 2500 feet, but the gradients were much better than in the Lake District. Over some open fields and through the suburbs before hitting a small road which climbed past a large quarry and at the end of the road it was onto the open fell and moor. Still in the far distance, on the crest of the far hill, you could see the 9 standards which was the goal. Their true origin is uncertain, they may have been boundary markers or erected as a stone army to deter the Scots from long ago. Reached the goal after a couple of hours, and then pressed on to the moors proper. Lots water and boggy bits but at least softer on the underfoot and heels but harder on the knees and all downhill!! Continued to slowly descend. Lots of grouse on the moors, they make a funny bark when they take off in flight. The weather remained kind, the sun shining and a cooling breeze blew drying the sweat from your back.
At the bottom of the descent I paused for lunch, water and a chocolate bar and a rest enjoying the splendid isolation and the quiet. I crept along Whitsundale Beck, up and down and finally reached Ravensdale. A small farm attractively located and offering tea and cool drinks all much needed and welcome. Even the kids helped deliver the goodies. From there it was a pleasant climb onto the ridge and along the cliff tops of How Edge Scars with the Swale river cascading below. Absolutely beautiful! Again green fields and rock fences with lots of stone barns everywhere. Finally I descended and passed the ruins of “Smithy Farm” before crossing the Swale over Low Bridge and joining the road which led to Keld. Still some climbing to go, but gentle on the legs. The road followed the limestone cliffs along the river bed. There were some cattle in the fields but mostly sheep and the variety of noises they make is mind boggling for a simple Antipodean, at least. I followed directions to our accommodation all downhill hoping that they were right as I didn’t want to have to climb back up to the main street. I met Syd in the local cafe (pronounced KAF) after she had arrived by taxi earlier in the day and was told to go away till 1600hrs.
Again I “woossed” out. While Paul walked, I took a taxi to Keld. While waiting for the taxi I perused the shops of Kirkby Stephen. I even found a quilt shop but it was closed for holidays. On arrival at Keld I was told I was too early and again I had to pass the time waiting for Paul to arrive.
We were staying at “East View” a small B&B. There is little to do but the scenery is absorbing and absolutely beautiful. We had dinner with the 2 other guests at 1800 prompt. We started with celery and onion soup and then beef and potato pie followed by apple and rhubarb pie with custard. We finished off with a nice cup of tea. The food delicious and in large servings. The house worked like a well oiled army machine and we knew who was the boss. Both Margaret and Keith were in fact very friendly the rooms clean and adequate but you lived right on top of your neighbours. The whole house knew who snored, burped or tossed and turned it was that intimate!!!! After some after dinner conversation we went for a brief walk covering the highlights of Keld, which didn’t take long. We were impressed by the changing colours as the sun set. We returned to our room trying to sort out which route we would take tomorrow. We want to try and avoid the high road over the moor although we may miss some of the old lead mine works but the easier lower valley route seems more attractive. The difficulty is the lack of detail on our map. We were ready for bed at 2130
Keld is the half way mark!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! 95miles YeeeeeHawwww!!!!!!!!!!!! We’re over the hump and it’s all downhill from here( well not literally, but at least metaphysically!). Lots of hard work and sore joints aches and pains. But what a great experience. Best holiday ever. We are seeing parts of England that you would never see and at a slow pace that can be enjoyed by all. While catching details that you would normally miss!

Wednesday 05/09/2007
Up and down to Breakfast. We partook of a light breakfast today scrambled egg and cereals. Then again packed our things and set out. The wind was ferocious and quite cool but again no rain. We decided to go the lower route. We started down the valley making a detour to Crackpot Hall which was the start of the old lead mine workings. It would have been a hard life in those days cold and wet and uncomfortable. We retraced our steps and resumed our descent into the valley floor. Small tree plantations and a continuous array of stone barns and farm building dotted the fields. The sheep and cattle abound and there is plenty of green grass to feed them.
We passed close by to Mukeh. It was show day, a big event with people coming from all over the country to participate and be a spectator to the goings on. We watched from on high, perched on a track that wound around the cliff just above and next to the town. There was the band in their brand new blue uniforms playing happily, the sheep dog trials were also underway ( it was feared that this would not occur because of the recent outbreak of foot and mouth and the ban on movement of livestock that was in place as a result). There was a fair crowd already and it was growing as we watched. There was also the vintage tractor display and no doubt the produce stalls. Prince Harry was supposed to be the guest of honour. We couldn’t make him out from where we stood.
We continued on our way along a now sealed road strip. We passed through grouse moors where the landowner sold shooting rights for a thousand pounds a day per head. You only got to keep 2 birds the rest went to the game dealers for sale in the shops. You did get dinner and drinks with that and there is apparently no shortage of people keen to participate. The manor House sat impressively looking over the Swale Valley and the township of Gunnerside. 3 Landcruisers sat in the garage. We continued to descend in to Gunnerside proper a small quaint town with attractive houses and quaint buildings. We had soup and a roll for lunch in the local pub. Washed down with a couple of Panadol for the aching knees. We enquired about alternative tracks to Reeth as we were off the edge of our strip map details.
With some degree of uncertainty, as we got so many varied and altering descriptions, we set off. We walked back across to the other side of the Swale and along a bridlepath which hugged the southern side of the river and passed under the many trees lining the river banks. A pretty, but sometimes rugged path. After several miles the track crossed back over the river and along a rock wall. You walked about a half a mile on the top of this wall at a height of about 6 feet. The mind starts to play tricks, although the wall was 18 inches wide, one was very aware of the edge and you become more unsteady for the thought of it. The river lay one side and the field the other. After some time we had our feet back on solid ground. We continued along the river banks which are infested with rabbit warrens, dead and sick rabbits suffering from mixamatosis, everywhere. Syd tripped and fell, landing heavily but fortunately not injuring herself badly. Her left hand bruised, swollen and sore. Hopefully this will be our only injury (fingers crossed). We returned to the road for a couple of miles and trudged through the town of Healaugh before again returning to the river bank. After what seemed like an eternity, and a hundred miles, we reached Reeth. A quaint small town set around a village green nestled in the valley where the Arkle and Swale rivers combine. We had a refreshing shandy as we were tired and footsore before contacting Heather a friend of Syd’s who is a renowned rugmaker. She welcomed us and took us into her home. We talked for a while and had a welcome cuppa before Heather Syd and I went to the pub for dinner.
Heather previously ran a B&B, but now only does it for friends, so we were privileged. Her house is spectacular, full of curiosities and her wonderful rugs and other craft work. Heather is a wonderful, warm and welcoming lady you feel instantly relaxed and at home. She is full of energy and enthusiasm for life. She talked about her charity work and future plans to help the blind in Gambia. I admire her persistence and energy... I don’t know where she finds the time. Often travelling to varied parts of the world, including California and Australia (Milton if you don’t mind), as well as parts of the UK to teach rugmaking. Again, food good and great company. We were tired and retired at 2100 hrs exhausted, we had the best sleep of our holiday.

Thursday 06/09/2007
We awoke to see the sun shining. We have been just so lucky!!!! Slowly we made our way down for breakfast, a small cooked breakfast and coffee. Syd toured Heather’s workshop and gallery. The oldest part of their house is 300 years old. Heather’s work is very very good and rugs and tapestries hang everywhere, as well as decorating the steps and any other flat surface. Les, Heather’s husband does woodturning and makes all the wooden handles for proggy rug hooks and prodders (one has a poky end and one has a hook). We watched him at work, again an artist in his own right. Fleet their sheep-dog, spends all day herding their only chook (“Mrs Hen”) around the garden but so far no harm has come of it.
Heather took us by car to Richmond, a much quicker trip than what we will make tomorrow. We stopped at St Andrews church at Grinton. The church is peaceful and the history impressive, it was built in the 1500’s. The church marks the end of the “corpse way”. In days gone by, it was the only consecrated ground for the whole vale and the body of anyone who died was carried to the church from as far away as 18 miles. There is one area in which several people were buried at the time of the plague. The ground here is not allowed to be disturbed, even now. Heather has made a rug which is used when people are married and which hangs proudly in the church.
We followed the Swale into Richmond and wandered around. Richmond is a large town set on the hills above the Swale river. It is dominated by a castle ruin. We visited the Castle which was built in the 1100’s and was added to several times. It was at its greatest in the 1400’s but has fallen into ruin. The castle keep provided a grand view of the town (after climbing all 135 steps). There was the market square and the suburbs scattered about on the hills as well as the river far below in the valley. The town is also built around a large central market square with its own church. Its streets run up and down hill the central streets being cobblestoned and some beautifully tree-lined. The “Green Howards” regiment was founded here many years ago and has seen active service in many battlefields. We did a quick wander about and then rejoined Heather for a cuppa and some cheese melts. We returned to Reeth and then after another cup of tea drove to Langthwaite which is a small village in the hills above Reeth. Her mother lived there when she was evacuated to the countryside in the war. At the time she was pregnant with Heather. James Herriot’s “All Creatures great and small” was filmed here. You see the car driving up over the old bridge (you have to see the slides or video) as the tv stories open. Les and Heather were extras in the show. “A Woman of substance” was also filmed around this area. The Duke of Norfolk has a shooting lodge just above the village which we passed by. It has a helicopter pad and Prince Charles has visited often. We then drove back up over the fell, passing several shooting parties. We passed Surrender Bridge and saw the Old Surrender Smelt Mill which was part of the old lead mines which drove the local economy till they closed some 60 years ago or so. We then returned to Reeth via Heelaugh the sun sinking slowly. The colours brilliant and the shades of green amazing, contrasting with the dark stone walls. I wandered about Reeth taking some photos and getting a brief rest. We had dinner with Les and Heather. A lovely home cooked meal of pea, mint and pear soup with a dash of yoghurt followed by a corn beef pie and finished off with berries and yoghurt. A couple of Les’s home brewed ales washed the meal down. We sat and talked late into the night amazed by our hosts hospitality and friendliness. Nothing was too much. It really was like being part of the family!!! A great and memorable night... Both Heather and Les are beautiful people and skilful artists in their own right. This will definitely be something to remember for all time and certainly one of the highlights of our holiday.


Friday 07/09/2007
After a slow start we left Reeth. We had had breakfast and said goodbye to Les and Heather. We made a brief stop at the markets and then started our trip to Richmond. We strolled along the fields and across the road at Grinton continuing along the banks of the Swale River. After a short time we joined a track that lead past Marrick Priory which was destroyed in Reformation times. It is now restored partially but is private property. We then began a short but sharp climb along the steps and through the forest coming out into open pastureland. We went back and forth around Marrick and across many stiles and small fields. We then strolled onto an area of larger more open pastures. We backstepped briefly and had a most welcome cup of tea at Nun Cote Nook (so called because the nuns caught a crook here) farmhouse. It was a beautiful sunny day with not a cloud in the sky, quite warm almost too hot for walking. After refreshing our energy and enthusiasm levels we resumed our treck. We crossed the fields making a couple of brief wrong turns and emerged past Marske Hall and onto the road again and descended into Maske proper. We didn’t stop but continued along and out of town along the road before again exiting onto a footpath and across some more fields and crossed Clapgate Beck before climbing up towards Applegarth Scar. Hot work but fortunately after the climb we passed through the Forest which provided some shelter a further walk through some farm yards and then through a further forest we reached a hilltop that afforded a view of Richmond in the distance. At last!! We walked into town along a small road and reached the centre of town. We arrived about 1530 after a trek of some 10 miles. We stopped at a pub and had a refreshing shandy before retreating to our B&B guesthouse (Rosedale). We were quite tired and enjoyed the shower and a relaxing couple of hours doing not a whole lot. We then walked into town and had a delicious Chinese meal. After dinner we perused some of the backstreets and one of the old churches and graveyards. Again very interesting, and quaint old houses everywhere. We retired to our bedroom exhausted and were in bed by 2100hrs. The room comfortable and the bed likewise, there was room for opening suitcases and stretching out a little. Didn’t see much of the tv before falling asleep.

Saturday 08/09/2007
We had breakfast (fruit,scrambled eggs and salmon ) and readied ourselves, reapplying plasters and gathering provisions. Today was supposed to be relatively flat, it was cloudy with some sunny breaks but again still quite warm. We returned into Richmond town centre checking out the markets again before heading down to the bridge where we crossed the river and started out along the river bank. We crossed several fields and roads, again a couple of unnecessary detours made because of losing our way. The route is better signposted this side of the Lake District but leaves you uncertain at times despite this. We travelled along a disused railway and through fields and along bush tracks finally reaching Colburn which we entered via a small rivulet. Just before we reached Colburn, we came across a half dozen or so men in the fields wandering around with metal detectors. Presumably it was an archaeological site. We then headed along the open fields again getting lost a little. As we attempted to cross a fence to regain the true path Syd took a further tumble and ended up on her back beached again like a tortoise. She was upside down in the brambles, her leg was caught on the barbed wire which held her fast. She was lucky again not to suffer any injury apart from a bruised leg, ego and battered pride.
Having recovered, we pressed on, ignoring the cattle, sheep and farmers who seemed unhappy with our presence. Some farmers were ploughing, others cutting grass, while others were cutting the hedgerows. Some fields had been harvested some ploughed some still with crops in them. We continued on till we reached Brompton on Swale, ducked under the A1 road and then passed under an old railway bridge before surfacing adjacent to Catterick race course. We then crossed the Swale again before setting out along the river bank through fields of tall flowers and mown fields past an old quarry. We then passed along an elevated laneway into Bolton on Swale. Here we paused for a banana and wandered through the church yard where we saw the monument erected in honour of Henry Jenkins who was born in 1500 and who lived for 169 years. Henry could recall delivering a load of arrows to Flodden Field as a young man in 1513. The monument we saw was erected in 1743. The church tower dates back to the 16th century.
After a brief rest we headed off. Most of the remaining walk was along minor roads except for a small length of time spent on some more open fields still fighting off cattle and sheep. We continued to cross innumerable stiles. I am sure the farmers make them more difficult to cross and more numerous in order to make life as difficult as possible for the walkers who traverse their land. Despite the length of time spent on the open road the walk was still interesting the countryside still varied with forests and a variety of fields and pastures. At one point we came across a local who was returning from the pub where he had had lunch. He told us all about how he had lost his wife and was seeking another, via the internet. He talked about his liaisons/correspondence with several Russian women and charted his progress. He told us how he had achieved fame by featuring in a blog site of some American walkers who had travelled this way. We persevered and finally reached Danby Wiske at 1630h. We had now covered 130 miles of our target 191. Syd has a sore leg and both our feet ache and we are tired but holding up reasonably well in general. We enjoyed our cup of tea on arrival and settled in. Several other Australians were staying here at the “Old School House” too. We later met at the pub for dinner. The barman (James) will never be the same I am sure. Everyone put their orders on Martins bill and the whole place was one of confusion and laughter. The food basic but satisfying. A good night was enjoyed by all. We retired early and were in bed by 2130.

Sunday 09/09/2007
We were up and ready for breakfast at 0800 and were on our way by 0830. We started off along the roads before getting onto the footpaths cutting across fields and down farm lanes. The going was relatively flat still and a little more interesting than yesterday. There was a good cloud cover making it more pleasant and slightly cooler. We could see the Cleveland Hills in the distance and this was where we were headed. Syd had an upset tummy which made the trip a bit more difficult. We crossed over the main London-Edinburgh train line and then we had to dash across a double track going to an Eastern City a couple of miles later.
We continued winding along the back lanes and across fields until we reached the outskirts of Ingleby Arncliffe. There stood an impressive water tower built in 1915 by a member of the Bell family of Arncliffe Hall. The local water being pumped from the river Wiske. Still lots of sheep and cattle and a continued variety of odours to tickle one’s senses. We stopped for a bite to eat before undertaking the most dangerous part of our trip the dash across the M19 roadway. We got across safely and strolled down the street to Ingleby Cross a pretty little town. We passed the Blue Bell pub built in 1912. We then started the climb into the hills. We passed Arncliffe Hall and church built in 1821. We started up along the track winding through the forests of Arncliffe and South woods. We spotted a couple of grey squirrels and many pheasant. The scent had changed to pine rather than sheep and cattle poo. The climb made an almost pleasant change to the flat lanes and roads. The view was great as you looked back on the flat plains we had left behind. We slowly made our way to Osmotherley where we arrived at 1545. We checked in and our luck held. We had a beautiful room ON THE GROUND FLOOR, what’s more, plenty of space and laundry/drying facilities and a comfortable bed. We showered and arranged to get some washing done before heading into town, all of some 50 metres! We strolled about the streets and the church, again dating back to the 12th century church. The cottages are stone and very attractive with their flower boxes and walls that run at all sorts of angles. It would be an architects and builders worst nightmare to renovate these places. We joined the other 6 Australians we have met over the last few days and had dinner again in the local pub. 5 pounds for a glass of wine again and 12 pounds for a main meal. I had chicken while Syd had a terrific rack of lamb. Tired again (as usual) and in bed for tomorrow by 2130.

Monday 10/09/2007
Had breakfast at 0830 packed and got everything ready for a long day. Didn’t get started though till 1000hrs as we went to the post office to cash a traveller’s cheque. Had to buy something from the store in order to do so. So we bought some chocolate bars and cashed a cheque for 20 pounds. They would do no more, possibly being difficult?? Also got some new boot laces, as mine had worn through. Set off and back up the track rewinding past St Mary’s chapel which I detoured to just out of Osmotherley. Again the sun shone brightly and there were no clouds in the sky. We retraced our steps back to where we left the track on the edge of the forest. We climbed, albeit slowly through the forest to the top of Beacon Hill looking back down on the plains we had crossed earlier in the week. We could also see the moors away to our right. We crossed over Scarth Wood Moor and descended onto a small road looking down on Swainby as we went. We then circled around the edge of Clain Wood which followed along Scugdale and emerged at Huthwaite Green. Stilll very attractive and pleasant countryside.
We started a steep climb up some stairs and continued along the Cleveland Way which joined with the C2C path for 13 miles. At the top of the steps which ran through Live Moor Plantation we came out on the top of the world climbing over Round Hill. We descended from its top at 1025 feet down a saddle and climbed back (starting a roller coaster ride like trip which lasted all day!!!) Back up onto Carlton Moor at 1338 feet running adjacent to the landing strip of the gliding club. You could see the hangers from miles away. The wind was howling and was a bit scary as you wandered on the edge of a steep cliff in places and you were almost blown off your feet. We descended, undoing all the hard work we had just done, the descent being almost as difficult as the climb. You had to be very careful where you placed each foot so as not to slip. Certainly it was almost as slow as climbing. The views were still stunning all round. The valley and towns with green pastures, livestock, fields of mown grass and large stacks of hay as well as pockets of forest to the left and the moors with heath covered slopes to the right. There were grouse everywhere and in places some pheasants. When we descended into Carlton Bank we had a cuppa and some soup at Lord Stone Cafe a small cafe built on an old mine sit on the saddle between two valleys in the middle of nowhere. An unexpected and pleasant place to stop and regather one’s strength for the afternoon walk. From the cliff top nearby they were flying powered model aircraft and hang-gliders. The wind was still howling. There before us was the next challenge the steep climb up to Cringle Moor which sat at 1428 feet. Up and up we went all so slowly. The sweat didn’t stay long on your back or face because it was dried by the gale. As we mounted the top of Cringle Moor you could see the sea on the horizon encouraging us to continue. Syd’s leg was sore and was causing her some difficulty. We could see Tee Side and Middlesborough in the distance too. We skirted the cliff top of Cringle Moor in awe of the view. Then our jaws dropped, another steep descent and a further 2 steep climbs in front of us. The view was terrific. Down we climbed and stopped briefly, regaining our breath and gathering what strength remained. Up and up AGAIN to the top of Cold Moor climbing a steep slope with some rocky interruptions. We enjoyed the view again before staring with some dismay, at our last climb for the day, which was the climb through the Wain Stones onto Hasty Bank. We stopped thinking “must we do this?” knowing in reality that there was no other way off the moor. Back up again, our climb stopped by the Wain Stones which are an impressive group of large rocks. We scrambled and climbed through them finding a way along the path finally emerging on the top of Hasty Bank. We saw a couple of people practicing their climbing while we were there. We chatted to them briefly and started off to undertake our final descent to the road. We arrived at about 1745 at Clay Bank and phoned for a lift. The lady who ran our B&B came and collected Syd while I walked into town a further 2 miles. Again the accommodation was good. The room was large and had a huge en suite bathroom. We cleaned up, using what little energy we still had. We were absolutely exhausted!!! We had dinner in the nearby pub again the food good and servings huge Syd having pork while I enjoyed the chicken and mushrooms. We returned home and fell into bed unaware of anything around us.

Tuesday 11/09/2007
A late breakfast was the reward for yesterday’s hard work. Again up, packed and ready. In contrast to yesterday the Little Shop/post office cashed our traveller’s cheques with any any fuss. After breakfast our landlady took both of us back to where we left the actual walking track at Clay Bank. This saved us a long climb, well at least reduced the climb we had. We got out and immediately our walk started with another steep climb up onto the top of Urra moor which is the highest of the North Yorkshire moors. Another bright sunny day blessed us again no clouds and the wind much more pleasant today. A gentle breeze not a howling gale. We reached the top of Urra Moor scaring the Grouse as we went, they scattered in all directions. You could gain spectacular views looking back at the peaks of all the moors we climbed across yesterday. You could see back to Carlton Moor and still see the gliding club hangers. We have seen the best of the English summer weather by far. In places we were surrounded by heather covered slopes. The track was well maintained and largely composed of large rocks and stones. We tramped across the top of the moors and reached Bloworth Crossing where the path followed the path of the old Rosedale railway. The railway was built in 1861 and was used to convey Ironstone, which was mined in Rosedale and transported to the furnaces in Teeside. It closed in 1929. At Bloworth Crossing we left the Cleveland track and continued on our own way. The walking was now much easier as the slope was gentle. We still came across grouse and there were many carved rock signposts along the way. We followed the rail path as it swept around the edges of the hills. We overlooked the Farndale valley with the Dove River coursing along its base. There were plans to flood the valley with the building of a dam but fortunately it didn’t eventuate. The valley itself is beautiful.
We rounded a bend in the track and there in the distance was the Lion Inn. We continued on and reached our objective by 1500 hrs. The Inn itself was first built between 1553 and 1558. The interior is all dark, beautifully maintained with stone walls, low (very low in fact) ceilings. We are located on the top floor again up a small but very steep run of some stairs. There are old seats and plates and copper cookware everywhere. Really attractive! We had a drink toured the pub and had a wash before taking a brief walk. The hotel sits on a ridge which overlooks Rosedale valley. On the other side of the valley you can see the old mine workings and railway site which winds around the spur continuing on from where we were walking this afternoon. It was a much easier and shorter walk today and the sun shone throughout. A good day was had by all.

Wednesday 12/09/2007
Crept out of bed and had breakfast. Slept not too badly. Another dry, though overcast day some wind but not cold.
After breakfast I collected my gear and set off on my 15 mile walk, leaving about 1000hrs. The temperature was good for walking. The walk began with a several mile stroll along the road. I passed “new Ralph” which is a stone cross which has been adopted as the symbol of the “National Trust” In a couple of places there were excursions across moor land. After a couple of miles I crossed Danby Head looking down on Danby Dale then after a further road section I crossed Glaisdale Moor and passed around Great Fryup Dale below. There were many old roadsigns and signposts made out of stone along the way. One in particular indicating “Whitby Road” probably dating back to the 1700’s.The view remained impressive all round. After a long walk down a stony and irregular track I eventually came into Glaisedale. The valleys steep and the roads likewise. Not kind to one’s knees!!!! Passing through town I detoured to Beggars bridge a graceful high arched bridge over the river Esk which dates back to the 1600’s. From there the path passed through the East Arncliffe forest. It passes over multiple stone slabs placed many years ago and which are well worn assuming a scalloped shape from all the wear and tear over the hundreds of years use. The forest itself is beautiful with a great variety of trees and shrubs. I could imagine Robin Hood hiding out in areas like this. I saw deer and a red squirrel roaming the forest floor. The river Esk passed sometimes quietly, sometimes not so quietly, below in the valley floor. The fishing is private along almost the whole river, but we saw a photo of a large sea trout caught in the river near Grosmont recently. So the fish are still there.
After emerging from the forest, I found myself in the midst of steep valleys and green hills. I quickly reached Egton Bridge. A pretty small town built around the river and bridge. It is dominated by Egton Manor. A large country house with manicured gardens. Some people obviously live well!!. From here the track followed an old toll road to Grosmont. The old toll house still stands and displays the last toll rate issued in 1948. 6 pence for a hearse, 4 pence for a single horse and 2 wheeled vehicle. I passed under the countrylink line from Whitby to Middlesbrough, one of the few to survive the cuts introduced in the 1960’s by Mr Beeching. It has been upgraded recently because of its importance in servicing the Esk valley. I was soon in Grosmont itself arriving at 1445hrs. I am in 7th heaven. The North Yorkshire steam railway is based here and there are regular running services. Plenty of photo opportunities were found. We got to visit the workshops and storage areas. I found it fascinating with old steam and diesel engines to be explored. The first Whitby to Pilkington Railway was actually horse drawn and was built around 1867. All the staff are volunteers except a few engineers who recondition and maintain the rolling stock. The service has increased and now extends to Whitby on some services. The track runs 18 miles and then a further 6 miles to Whitby along the national rail network track. It carried 300,000 passengers last year and is the only private railway running at a profit. Syd arrived shortly after me having caught the bus because of worsening pain in her left lower leg. She seemed a little better for the day off.
We checked in to our accommodation at the Station Tavern. Pleasant staff, most helpful infact. The room comfortable the shower just what the doctor ordered. 176 miles down 15 to go. After strolling around town, there is not much to it if you take away the railway, we had dinner in the pub and retired to recover for tomorrow, our final day’s walk.

Thursday 13/09/2007.
Today is the day, all going well. We had slept well and had a good breakfast at 0830. Then off I set. Syd was taking other means of getting to High Hawsker. The owner of the pub at Grosmont offered to take her to Whitby with him, as he was doing some banking and shopping. This allowed her to purchase some film for the video camera and have a little peek at Whitby. He then detoured and dropped her off at High Hawkser, all at no cost, “part of the service”. She waited at the local pub for me, enjoying a cup of tea and a delicious mushroom soup.
Meanwhile back at the ranch. I had departed Grosmont at 0930. The road out was long and steep. At times the gradient was 1:3 and the climb continued for a mile and a half before levelling off on the moor. You could see Whitby away in the distance and could hear the steam trains whistling far below as they wandered the valley. Despite the relatively early hour and the slight cloud cover the sweat glands worked overtime as you worked to the top of the moor. There was a short detour across the moor before I had to race across the A169 to avoid the traffic as it flew by. Then all that hard work was undone, as I descended into Littlebeck. The climb down was as steep as the ascent out of Grosmont. This is a delightful small village based around a small rivulet. The main building seemed to be the Old Mill, quaint clean and tidy with neat colourful gardens. I was back where I started. I was down at the bottom of the valley with no way out but another steep climb of some magnitude.
I may as well get on with it. So off I set, into the forest. The path was steep and rough in places. The forest track was supposed to extend for 2 miles but seemed at least twice that distance. The May Beck ran along the valley floor. There were some beautiful areas of forest and the constant babble of the water running over the rocks in the stream bed diverted my attention from the struggle up the incline. The area was used for mining Alum which drove the local economy and the remnants of the mine tailings can still be seen scattered through the forest floor. I finally reached the “Hermitage”. It is a large rock which has been carved out and could provide seating for a large group if needed. It was carved by George Chubb in 1790. It is quite impressive. I enjoyed a short break before continuing on. I continued to climb along the valley floor passing a waterfall named the “Falling Foss” and a cottage appropriately named “Midge Cottage”. Then finally the forest thinned and I reached a car park at the top of the valley. There was however a further climb, along a sealed road onto the moor. Crossing Sneaton Low Moor, I traversed along a road for a mile or so before cutting across another moor. Actually got my boots muddy and wet along this part of the track! The signposting was poor and I ended up a little misplaced in the fields. I could still see Whitby on the horizon and finally found a way onto the track I was seeking. After a couple of miles along a small track and back road I reached High Hawsker and met up with Syd in the pub. I had done 10 miles arriving tired, at 1400 hrs.
After some rehydration, we set off on the last leg of our journey. We had 5 miles to go. We walked along the road out of High Hawsker and past some holiday van parks which reminded us of Butlins Hi De Hi shows. We emerged on the cliff tops. We had achieved our goal and gone coast to coast but we weren’t finished quite yet. The cliffs were quite spectacular. The sea was broody and the clouds gathered in a similar mood, threatening to rain on us. The sea-birds called overhead and sat on the small rock outcrops far below while the ships passed by further out to sea. We climbed up and down the cliff edges, getting closer all the time to our destination but as so often it seemed to be on a string and out of reach. Finally, there it was as we rounded one more corner and emerged from the bushes. Robin Hoods Bay, a collection of quaint and impressive cottages and holiday hotels which ran all the way down to the boat slip and the English Channel. We checked into our Hotel after arriving at 1700hrs. After a shower and spruce up we wandered down into town. I emphasise DOWN because it was very very steep and we had to get back up again later.
Robin Hoods Bay was first established in the 1500’s. It would have made and indeed DID make a great smugglers cove. The streets run in all directions and are very narrow with small (tiny) buildings of all shapes and angles crowded in everywhere. There are little alley ways and small lanes everywhere, often separating the houses from their gardens. I don’t know how you could make the rooms functional, they would be so small and almost impossible to renovate or modernise. We walked all the way down to the slip way and undertook the traditional wetting of the boots and deposited our stones which we had dutifully carried from the west coast at St Bees. That is our theory of global warming. The world is becoming lopsided because of the movement of all these stones. We had a drink celebrating the end of our walk and the achievement. 192 miles completed and still in one piece!! We then had dinner in the Wainwright Bar of the “Bay Hotel” which is on the sea edge. We relaxed, knowing there was no need to do more walking tomorrow and with some good food and a few drinks, we knew that we would sleep extra well.
What do I think of it all now? Hard work! Challenging! Rewarding! The best holiday, seeing different parts of the English countryside to the usual and at a leisurely pace. Spectacular scenery. Blessed by the weather, even today as the clouds gathered, it passed and didn’t rain and we ended up with a great sunset. We certainly have enjoyed the best of the English summer. Great opportunity to meet many interesting locals and fellow travellers. Well worth the hard work and aches and pains, although I finished in better condition than I expected. Surprised how well we actually stood up to it. I have lost some weight and found my endurance has increased. The challenge is to maintain that level of fitness now. Glad to have done it and will probably be remembered as one of the best times and a unique opportunity. I guess a sense of achievement!! I would recommend it to anyone. Syd would have liked the average day’s walking to be less, say about 5-10 miles. Would I do it again probably do something else!

Friday 14/09/2007
We arose feeling refreshed and happy with what we had achieved. Syd had not slept too well as her side of the bed was enclosed by a wall and roof which encased her. We had breakfast and repacked. Having done all this we called a cab and travelled to Scarborough. We alighted at the station which was under “lockdown mode”. Prince Charles’s train had just arrived at the station. The whole station was restricted and police were everywhere. Such a fuss just to open a museum!! We wandered the back streets finding whatever we could that was of interest, including a windmill, before returning to the station to catch the train to York. The trip was comfortable and incident free, until we reached York. There had been a security incident at the station and we were delayed and could not alight normally as a result. We did so, eventually and then after a quick bite to eat, we collected our rental car and successfully navigated our way out of York. We traversed some beautiful countryside, as we had done all through the holiday. We retraced our steps back to Robin Hood’s bay and picked up our luggage, which we had left at our B&B. We then headed North. We reached Whitby after a short time. It is dominated by its abbey. A church was first built on the site in 657. The abbey as such was first built in 1090. It underwent a number of changes over the years and was completed in its present form in the 13th century. It was sold to the Cholmley family by Henry the 8th after the reformation. Part of the west wall was destroyed by a German battleship in the First World War as it shelled the English Coast.
It remains impressive with its position on the headland and its detailed workmanship. Standing atop the cliffs it is visible from many miles away. The abbey inspired Bram Stoker the creator of Dracula and several scenes were centred around the abbey itself. We drove in and out of Whitby proper, which is centered around its small port and fishing wharves. It actually smelt of fish and chips. It is famous for its seafood especially its cod. The small streets and warehouses remain very attractive. We stopped in several spots for photo opportunities.
We travelled along the back roads and the M1/A 1 getting as far North as Alnwick. At times we got lost around the cities of Teeside, not sure which turn to make, as the car rental company provided the most basic road map and only upon request!! We stayed at the Oaks Hotel in Alnwick, a busy local hotel. More good food and very comfortable accommodation made for a good night. We watched the rugby world cup, observing the English Fans becoming more upset as the South Africans increased their lead. Soon there was much wailing and nashing of teeth! We retreated to bed.

Saturday 15/09/2007
Up and off to breakfast. Then we drove into town. Alnwick is an attractive market town in Northumberland. Its main attraction is the castle and its gardens. The castle is the official residence of the Duke of Northumberland and was the inspiration for JK Rowling’s “Hogwarts school”. The state rooms are impressive with a huge number of priceless art works and collections of weapons and dinner wear (crockery). The furniture is also priceless and the chapel is unique with its tapestries and art work. The castle walls are spectacular, set among green fields with sheep wandering freely around them. There was a guide that related the history of the local area and the knight’s school which functioned here. The gardens are also impressive with some plants (opium poppies) kept under lock and key. There is also a poison garden section. We didn’t visit as time was short and the cost high. You couldn’t afford to see all the things you would like as most places charge 5-10 pounds a head entry fee.
The weather had deteriorated and it was raining at times. After completing the castle tour we walked through the streets of Alnwick and then returned to our car before driving further North. We travelled along the coastal road. We drove out to Holy Island across the tidal plains. When the tide is high, the island is isolated. It can only be reached by car when the tide is at its lowest. Lindisfarn Castle is sited at the far end of the island. We didn’t tour the castle itself as we had to press-on north. We passed by castles at Bamburgh and Tantalloon. Passing by Berwick on Tweed, which was also impressive with its number of bridges traversing the river and its city walls. Some of which date back to the 11th century. Parts of the wall were restructured into ramparts in Elizabethan times. We found a cafe and enjoyed some warm soup before returning to the car and heading on. We also saw Bass rock which forms a part of the seabird nesting area here. Again this is impressive natural structure, the white laguno covered slopes contrasting with the grey ocean. The countryside remained green and although wilder was still very attractive and pleasant to the eye. We rolled into Edinburgh and with the assistance of the new satellite navigation system, we made our way across town safely to Robin and Frances’s house. They had not changed at all since we last saw them 14 years ago. They live in a large beautiful house in the inner suburbs of Edinburgh, near to Murrayfield stadium. We enjoyed a quiet night with their family and some of their friends who came round for dinner. Again good to catch up with old friends and recall lots of past times.

Sunday 16/09/2007
Today was a quiet day. Just what we needed. A slow start to the day and an opportunity to do some washing etc. The weather remained poor with rain persisting through most of the day. It gained strength when we decided to go into town. Robin, Frances, James and Katherine, Syd and I all getting wet through. We wandered town, which matched the weather. The city is beautiful but the stone buildings remain grey and foreboding. We had lunch in a small restaurant then walked past the castle which is just recovering from the tattoo. The cost of 11 pounds each meant we didn’t tour the castle. We strolled down the royal mile (the distance from the castle to Hollyrood Palace being 1 mile). The city itself we find fascinating and is a good size being easier to get around than some of the larger cities. It was pleasing to expand our knowledge of its history and refresh our memories of it. We had enjoyed living here some 20 years ago and despite the rain thoroughly enjoyed this visit too. The girls went window shopping while the boys went to “Planet Earth” a science/history/geological exhibit. By the time we finished the rain had eased. We returned home passing along some of the scenic attractions along the way including a trip around Arthur’s seat. The old Royal Infirmary has closed and is now being converted into expensive apartments. We enjoyed a quiet night at home and managed to arrange for some of our things to return as unaccompanied luggage to Australia being picked up in Edinburgh. Again a good night with good friends.

Monday 17/09/2007
Completed details for transfer of goods back to Australia. After breakfast Robin drove us into town. E again walked the Royal Mile and did the tour of Mary Kings Close. It is a tour of the area along the royal mile where people lived in the 15th century and beyond. There was no sanitation in those times and houses ran along a series of narrow alleys or closes. The buildings grew upwards trying to escape the squalor and stench. They reached up to 8 stories in places and the richer people lived towards the top above the filth and the poor at the bottom. In the 18th century the tops of some of these buildings were removed and formed the floor structure/foundation of the newer buildings being built. The royal exchange now the council chamber was built over Mary King Close. It would have been a dark and foul area and life would have been hard with disease rife. Livestock shared the buildings and people conducted their lives in the middle of it all. The plague took its toll here too. The tour was interesting. I don’t think I would have coped there if I had to live in those conditions. Afterwards we walked around a little before returning to Robin’s place and picking up our gear and then headed off. We briefly passed by Baberton where we lived 20 years ago little has changed except the trees are bigger. The rain still tumbled down.
We then stopped at Rosslyn Chapel recently made more famous in the “De Vinci Code” It dates back to 1446. The stone carvings are spectacular and intricate. The roof is barrel vaulted with carvings depicting all sorts of things. The windows and altar areas are again minutely detailed and awe inspiring. The apprentice’s pillar is spectacular. The head stone mason left his apprentice while he went overseas seeking inspiration and returned to find that the apprentice had completed the second pillar in such detail and with such fine workmanship that he struck him dead in a fit of jealous rage. He was later executed for his crime. There are grave sites including Sir William St Clair who fought the Moors in Spain and died in 1330.There are links to the Knights Templar and all the suspicion and intrigue that this brings.
We drove south through the valleys and glens along the back roads to Moffat. We came along small tracks and over high mountain passes. Some of the roads are quite uneven and strictly follow every contour in the ground. Seemingly no effort has been made to smooth them out at all. Waterfalls tumbled down from these mountains in places. We then joined the motorway and raced further south. We passed under the footbridge that we walked across several weeks earlier during our walk across Britain. The rain started to ease as we reached Lancaster and the sun was setting. We found a quaint little pub “The Stork” near Morecombe Bay. Several people drowned there last year while collecting cockels as the tide races in quicker than one can run. The pub was thatch roofed and comfortable although somewhat stuffy. The food was reasonable and was run by folks with a South African connection. We settled in for a quiet night.

Tuesday 18/09/2007
We drove further south passing through Chester which was congested and difficult to drive through and around. We drove mostly on the motorways to cover the distance required, bypassing all the big midland cities and finally, we reached North Wales. The roads were again narrow and winding. We drove through Oswestry stopping briefly for lunch. We meandered through Newtown, Llandrindod Wells, Builth Wells, Brecon, LLandovery, LLandeilo and finally Llanelli. The countryside still green attractive and pleasing to the eye. We stayed at the Stradey Park Hotel. We were stuck looking into the hill at the side of the hotel missing the views. Llanelli has changed enormously since we lived there. We walked the streets and had a Chinese meal for dinner. Unemployment seems to be a problem and the centre of town is dead. Most of the activity revolves around shopping centres further out from town proper. Slept well.

Wednesday 19/09/2007
This morning we met Brian and Jo Anna again old time close friends from long ago. They were kind enough to drive us to the Gower peninsula near Swansea. Despite the rain tumbling down it remains pretty. We had lunch on the headland where a supposedly haunted house lies on the beach. It is booked for the next 20 years for Halloween night already. We drove along the entire peninsula including the Mumbles an attractive resort area with beautiful houses and small shopping precincts. It is brightly coloured offsetting the grey skies overhead. We had a delicious ice cream from Joes shop. The ice cream is so good it is sold in Harrods and has only 2 outlets. The profits go to the Catholic Church as decreed in the will and testament of the previous owner and founder. His family have employment if they wish but that’s all.
We were impressed by the attention and kindness shown to us by Brian and Jo. They had taken time off work to show us around. We returned to Jo’s place and then visited Dr Mike Dew whom I worked for when I was in Llanelli. Mike provided me with much assistance and inspiration when I was studying for my MRCP examinations. He also inspired some of my general interest in medicine and especially endoscopy. It was again good to see him again and chat about old times and how the health services have changed both in Britain and Australia and how the political situation has dictated those changes. Despite all the seeming problems, especially waiting lists, I still believe that we have a good health service in Australia. The level of service is good and generally available to all. We lose sight of that at times but there is still room for vast improvement. After a cup of tea we left Mike’s place and returned to our hotel before again meeting Jo and going to dinner at a local restaurant. The food was good and the service friendly. Then back to the hotel for a well earned rest.

Thursday 20/09/2007
Up and after Breakfast we set off. We drove around Llanelli and checked out places that we once knew. They have spent a lot of money on redevelopment of the foreshore. There are now marinas and seaside walks and new blocks of expensive units. We walked to Duck pond an area where we took the kids for many walks when they were young. Hasn’t changed much at all! We then drove to Kidwelly a small nearby town with a castle that dominates all around it. The castle ruins, dating from the 14th century or so, stand on the river bank. We strolled around and then drove back to Llanelli. We visited the site where the old hospital stood. There is only a shell of the building left and the rest has been replaced by a large number of flats. The old flats we lived in have also disappeared. The streets have not grown any wider and the front doors of many of the houses still open directly onto the streets. We had good times in Llanelli and remember that fondly. The work, the people we met, the Brecon Beacon region, the Gower peninsula and the friendliness of the staff made it so. Those pleasant memories will remain with us.
We left Llanelli heading East on the M4 passing Swansea Port Talbot and Bridgend. We crossed the bridge into England and drove along the M5 towards Somerset. The sun shone at times and the trip was quite pleasant. We got off the motorway and drove along the north shore of Somerset and Cornwall. The views were quite spectacular at times. We stopped at Minehead checking into the Best western hotel. We lowered the average age of the residents by 20 years. It looked like a respite hostel. The room was again comfortable. We went into town for dinner walking up and down the main street before deciding on a place to eat. The food was good and we had a good night. We returned home to our hotel and slept well. The town was busy, groups of people running through the centre of town. They were there for the world tug-of-war championships.

Friday 21/09/2007
After breakfast and packing we set off again. Breakfast was a bit like “faulty towers” we passed the tug of war championships which were in full swing. There were many teams in action on a football pitch. The ground will probably never be the same again. We left Minehead the rain tumbling down our views restricted as a result. We crossed the Exmoor moors even paying a small toll to pass through a private road at one stage. We reached Lynmouth and had morning tea. There was a flood here several years ago destroying a lot of the town. Again we drove along small hedgerow lined lanes dotted with thatched houses in small villages. From there the rain poured down. We stopped at Boscastle and walked down to the 16th century harbour and blowhole. The area also suffered flooding in 2004. We then drove to Tintagel the legendary home of King Arthur. It is also the site of the oldest and cutest post office in England. We didn’t have time to stop or walk around and continued on. We then had a pleasant drive to Antony where we stayed with Brian and Allison again old friends whom we knew from our times in Saudi Arabia. Brian has retired from a long time working for the Royal Navy. They live in a beautiful old home several hundred years old with sloping roof and uneven floors and timber beams in the ceiling. They have a pleasant view over the estuary and flood plains across the Plymouth valley. We went to dinner at a nearby restaurant that sat among a number of old fisherman/holiday huts that have no water or electricity but which are worth a fortune. They sit high on the cliff with views to the end of Cornwall and over the English Channel. The food was good and more stories relating to our Saudi times were rehashed. Pleasant memories of times past. We talked late into the night and retired to recharge the batteries.

Saturday 22/09/2007
We got up and had breakfast with Brian and Allison. We then drove to an area high on the cliffs above the entrance to Plymouth harbour. The navy has used the port as a base since the times of King Henry the V111 i.e. about the 16th century. We walked along the small tracks with Brian and Allison and their dog “Jet”, through fields and back along the actual clifftops, where we could see several deer hiding in the scrub below. We saw many of the old fortifications built in the 19th century to protect the coast and naval base from possible invasion by the French. One of these large forts is still used as training areas by the British armed services and sits high on the clifftop on one of the headlands. Others are scattered along the bay and outer coastal area, others serve different functions. One provides tourist accommodation. We also saw the large breakwater, with lighthouses at each end, in the outer harbour. One of the lighthouses has a large area in which crew from stricken ships could shelter while waiting for help. We then visited the small local church, St Michaels, at Rame. It was first licensed for Mass in 1397. The church is truly packed at Christmas for the carol service and the crowd spreads into the outside area. It must look quite spectacular as it still does not have electricity and must be lit by candles. We had a quick drink at the local pub after winding our way there down some beautiful tiny lanes lined by hedgerows. The sun still shining and it was quite pleasant sitting quietly for a few minutes chatting. House prices in the area are 10.7 times the average wage for Britain. Don’t know how they get started.
Then we had to pack and head off to London. The drive was pleasant. The countryside remained attractive and green with pockets of forest dotted among the pastures. During the trip we heard on the radio that the Motorway was blocked at one point and there was a traffic jam of some 35 miles. Fortunately we weren’t going that way! The road system is generally very good except at times like that. The sun remained bright and was only setting as we hit the outskirts of London. Again we would be lost, literally, without the sat nav system. We drove through the suburbs and into inner London finding Mike’s place in Wandsworth where we stayed the night. His house is grand and furnished with taste and style. We shared a take- out curry and sat chatting all evening. Mike and I were on the plane together to Saudi in 1982 sharing a flat for 3 months and it’s a pity he lives so far away as we would be much closer if distance was not such a problem. Hopefully he will visit Australia soon.

Sunday 23/09/2007
We awoke relatively early and packed after a good shower with lots of warm water. Sad to leave Mike and say good bye hopefully it will not be another 18 years before we see him again. We headed into the centre of London. All hope would have been lost if we didn’t have sat nav and it wasn’t early Sunday morning, as the traffic would chew us up and spit us out. We had to return our hire car to Victoria station near Buckingham Palace so it was a bit daunting, compounded by the fact that many roads were closed allowing a bike free day. The weather was good, and make it we did. We then had to catch a cab to Waterloo station to catch the train to Paris. We had plenty of time to spare and sat patiently watching the world pass by. The check-in and passport check by the French was no problem at all.
The train was comfortable and the ride smooth as we travelled through the suburbs of London and then the countryside gathering pace as we went. The whole journey to Paris takes 2.75 hours (soon to be reduced to 2.25 hours). The project took 10 billion pounds to build and was constructed by 13000 workers. The work required 31 miles of digging of which 24 are under the channel where the average depth is 150 feet under water. The service was excellent with plenty of drinks and a good meal. The trip under the channel took 20 minutes then we resurfaced in France. As we stopped briefly in Calais armed guards with submachine guns and other police strolled along the platform. Something we’re not used to at home. We arrived in Gare Du Nord on time. A comfortable journey which I felt beat flying, hands down!! Spent more than a penny as it was 1 euro ($1.50 ) to visit the loo at the station. Then we joined the queue for a taxi which moved smoothly and we quickly found ourselves on our way to our hotel. I am glad I am not driving here, the roads are chaotic and bikes have no rules although they are present in overwhelming numbers. They are parked in large queues everywhere. The hotel (Relais de Paris) was situated in the Bastille district and although the rooms are small they are reasonably comfortable. Basic but adequate. The staff were very helpful though. The lift was tiny with only room for 2 and 2 suitcases reminds me of Peter Sellers in “Being there” this is a very small room.
We composed ourselves and set out to explore. We walked to Gare De Lyon and discovered that the train we catch tomorrow actually leaves from a different station. So we will have to arise extra early and miss breakfast to get there on time. The stations are a work of art, huge structures with beautiful statues and stone sculptures which are all quite impressive. The streets are bustling with life, they ARE alive, exciting. Lots of small cafes on the sidewalks, exactly as described and I can see why people fall in love with Paris. I have done the same. You can rent bicycles from little stands in the street scattered around many locations in the tourist districts, and return them when finished. The bikes would be trashed in Australia I am afraid, but there are a great idea. We left Gare De Lyon and walked to the National Gardens and Zoo, beautiful peaceful and really quite impressive. We then strolled through some of the back streets past St Germaine and reached the river Seine. There stood Notre-Dame. Beautiful and spectacular, inspiring a sense of awe, its beauty enhanced by the changing colours of the trees around it, with the coming of Autumn. We crossed the Sein and watched a beautiful unset outlining some of the buildings. We passed the Hotel de Ville and started to head toward home. Strolling along the back streets, we found a small restaurant (Les Philosophes) and had dinner sitting on the sidewalk. We were perched precariously in the main doorway but this added to the atmosphere. A memorable night, good food, simple tasty beef and lamb, some great French wine and bread and great atmosphere. There is something special about Paris, in many ways. Everyone seems so much more relaxed and the social norms go out the window. You are what you are and no one cares. Smoking remains a problem even in public places.
We walked the backstreets trying to find our way home, passing many beautiful buildings on the way. These included the Bibliotheque of the History of Paris and the most beautiful square in Paris the Place Des Vosges. Well worth another visit in the daylight hours. We finally found the Place De la Bastille and knew we were on the right track. A further mile down the road and we found our hotel where we slumped into the chairs before scrubbing up and retiring absolutely exhausted. I am sorry we don’t have more time in Paris but this provides a good excuse to return and spend more time here next time. Tomorrow we travel to Switzerland.

Monday24/09/2007
We woke with a fright. The hotel desk rang, enquiring whether we still wanted the taxi we ordered. We had forgotten the time change from London and were running an hour behind. We scrambled madly and were down in the hotel foyer in 10 mins. Not a bad effort!! We caught a cab which was waiting and arrived quickly at Gare De L’Est. Soldiers armed with submachine guns strolled the platforms and public areas. We found our train when it arrived and had to walk 15 carriages to the far end of the train literally before boarding.
What a day of contrast. We started in the predawn darkness of Paris ending in the sun lit glamour and glitz of St Moritz in Switzerland! The TGV train pulled out of Paris on time. We weren’t too concerned at this point as we had allocated seats. We left at 0824 hrs. The trip was smooth and comfortable, speeding through the French countryside at 320 km/hour on the fast track. We passed fields and small cities before reaching the hills in the south. The trees are starting to change colour with the onset of autumn and it was very pretty. Sometimes canals followed the course of the track We arrived at Zurich spot on time at 1258. We were worried about not having allocated seats and only a small amount of time to get to the other platform. But we literally got off the train, walked 50 metres and joined the connecting train to Chur. We were the only people on the carriage we occupied. All our worry was in vain. The Swiss trains are timed to perfection using of course a Swiss watch. They all leave precisely to the second. The views as we left Zurich were spectacular. We travelled along the shores of a lake. Sailing boats were moored on the edges while people strolled along the various shores dodging the bike riders as they went on their ways and we slowly climbed into the foothills. All the green fields with steep mountains topping them some snow remaining on the highest peaks. The valleys are dotted with small towns with castles and churches everywhere. Cattle which give rise to the famous Swiss chocolate, feed quietly in the fields. Small grey streams of water fed from the melting snows raced down the mountain sides and into the lower valley floors.
We arrived at each station precisely on time. We reached Chur at 1457. Again our concern was in vain. The transfer was easy with some stairs and a ramp to the other platform. Again the train was empty, we shared the whole carriage with 2 other people. From here the views got even better. Green fields scattered with cattle and quaint wooden houses then higher alpine pastures and above all that the mountain peaks. The engineering for the trip is spectacular. You climb relatively quickly often doubling back on the track you have come along and looking back down on it. One minute you are traversing green alpine fields, the next you are crossing spectacular viaducts some hundreds of feet high and then you disappear into a tunnel for a few minutes at a time. Often you are in the thick of beautiful forests. The villages, churches and steep river valleys dot the scenery all round. The train traverses all this smoothly and quietly. We chose the best time of the year by far. The weather also cooperated with brilliant sunshine all day, making it all the more spectacular.
We arrived at St Moritz at 1655. The village is small but obviously the playground of the rich and famous. All the best shop names and products are on display. The photographer we met has a catalogue of 25000 shots of guests at the famous hotel here and he is in the process of culling this to several thousand of the most famous which he will keep for posterity. Our hotel is great. No view but the whole town overlooks a lake and is surrounded by high alpine peaks. The sunset was something else!! Our hotel room is huge and has all the conveniences, even a washbasin for each of us no sharing here!!! Plenty of room for luggage etc. We strolled the streets, windowshopping and thinking that some people live in a different world to the rest of us. The town is small, pretty, neat and organised. Some of the buildings are painted and decorated as in the southern areas of Germany. Everything is extremely efficient and well organised. We had dinner at a restaurant over the road from our Hotel. There was a dog similar to Henry in the restaurant. People take their dogs everywhere here too even into restaurants. A main meal costs 30 dollars on average, a 2G photocard was 80 dollars approx. A coke on the train was $4.50. The taxi was $25 for a 10 minute trip from the station. All very expensive, probably back to McDonalds from here if we wish to continue to eat! Having done most of the streets of St Moritz we retreated to our hotel did some washing and caught up on some “housekeeping”. We will sleep much better tonight knowing we won’t have to worry about seats and other things. We can sit back and enjoy the scenery some of which we glimpsed today. Hope the weather holds.

Tuesday 25/09/2007
No the weather didn’t hold!!!! We awoke to cloud smothering the mountains. You could see the lower areas but nothing else. We went down to breakfast hoping things would improve but no such luck. A full continental breakfast filled us with strength to face the day ahead. I strolled to the bank and changed some traveller’s cheques. Security is missing, there is no barrier between the customer and the staff, you could walk around the counter quite easily. The staff were most helpful! Along the way I came across 4 men who worked on the roads. They were chipping ashphelt from the edges of the road where they had cobblestone paving in place. They were trimming 2-3 cm of bitumen from the edging rock. Detail is all important. No stress no hurry. Unemployment is apparently low in Switzerland itself and the economy is robust. Tourism is all important though. Financial again, I returned to the hotel and packed then walked across the street and caught another cab to the station. Again about $25. We dragged our luggage onto the Glacier express and settled in for an 8 hour trip. The scenery was spectacular but limited as the weather remained poor and it began to rain, heavily at times. This further limited the view and photo opportunities. Drats!!!! There was an interesting and informative commentary detailing points of importance relating to the various towns and areas we passed through. We retraced our steps from St Moritz to Chur, still beautiful, but missing something from yesterday, mainly, sunshine and the mountains, which were well hidden in the low clouds.
The Glacier express runs from St Moritz to Zermatt. The route is composed of a number of different tracks joined together. It includes several rack and pinion sections because of the severe gradients, up to 1:8 at times. The scenery worsened as we approached Chur. We then climbed and it was snowing as we traversed the Oberalpass at a height of 2033m. We traversed streams fed by melting snow which were grey in colour, we passed cows in alpine pastures dressed with the traditional cowbell, we rolled through many small villages of differing cultural heritage and relative importance at various periods in history. We went through the canton (municipality) where most of the Swiss Guards come from. They must be of Swiss origin and be between 18 and 35 years of age and of good standing before they apply and offer their services for 2 years. They accompany the pope on trips and perform ceremonial guard duties.
The first of the lines was created in 1889 between Davos and Landquart. With the opening of the Furka basis tunnel in 1982 all year round services were made possible between St Moritz and Zermatt. The first ever trip doing the same full route was done in 1930 but was only possible in the summer months till this time.
We passed along the upper Rhine and then the Rhone valleys. There were many small villages with houses and barns made out of wood. Highly attractive, quaint, but not easily photographed because of reflections in the inside of the carriages and the rain on the outsides of the windows. There was a brief but only slight improvement in the weather as we reached Brig, but it was only brief. We passed sites of previous major landslides the last in 1991. Waterfalls cascaded from the higher slopes. There is a crisscross network of roads and train tracks. The Swiss rail network is the most dense in the world. Services are frequent and reliable in all areas. We passed areas of vineyards growing on small pockets of land trellised on the steep hillsides as they have been for many generations.
We were deeply upset as we left Chur 3 mins late. Tut tut!! But we arrived at Zermatt 30 seconds late. So much for Swiss efficiency!!! The train trip was a bit like Faulty Towers at times. The wine spilt, a glass broke as the train jolted, I dropped the handle of the video into the soup bowl, the audio system didn’t work for a while, the coffee machine wasn’t working, Syd wanted white tea but they only offered green or black. But it remained a good day despite all this. We arrived in Zermatt only 1 minute late and were freezing. It was raining and cold. We attempted to phone for the electric powered taxi to take us to our Hotel. Syd got onto the Police by mistake they weren’t interested in taking us to our hotel. Funny about that! Finally the taxi arrived and we reached our hotel, an oasis of warmth and dryness. The Taxi driver doubled as the doorman. The staff were dressed in period costume, our room was again most comfortable with enough space. We started to unpack and then went to dinner in the Hotel as it was, by now, dark and still wet. The set menu was $50 a head for melon and ham, soup, salad and then veal with broccoli and pasta, then sweets. The waiter serving drinks looked like mad Ludwig with is uniform including tails and his hair standing out at all angles. The food was delicious. Then off to bed and the opportunity to sleep in tomorrow. The weather forecast is not promising unfortunately. We’ll see.

Wednesday 26/09/2007
We awoke having slept well. Breakfast was more than adequate. Some people had champagne for a starter then there was the choice of cooked or continental breakfasts with cereal fruit and yoghurt etc. The weather had improved (NOT)!!! Today was all of 4 degrees compared to 3 degrees yesterday and tomorrow will be even better at 5 degrees. It rained and snowed all day and you could not see the mountains for the cloud.
After breakfast it was time to do the washing etc. We then walked into town rugged up against the wet. We strolled among small structures (houses and barns and store houses) that hugged narrow winding alley ways. Interspersed among them and especially on the margins of the town are the newer hotels and ski lodges and other structures. Many of the buildings have attractive flower boxes that adorn them, all in full bloom at present. Some of the older barns etc date back to the 16th century. They stand on wooden logs supported by circular rock pieces that prevented the rodents from getting into the grain stores. We came across an old lady out taking her dog for a walk. The dog was a St Bernard and was almost as big as her. Yesterday the train commentary discussed the role of these dogs. 1 dog in particular is credited with saving 35 people at various times during its life.
Although this is the quiet season the town is still busy, with people bustling around the small streets. I can’t imagine what it would be like at peak times. Probably too busy and crowded/rushed. Many people are well dressed and trim but not snooty. We walked the back tracks and reached the lower slopes which afforded spectacular views of the town. The autumn colours of some of the trees contrasted beautifully with the green fields and the dark wooden barns. The clouds rolling in around our ears shrouding the trees and slopes but hiding everything else above from view. The town is all the more attractive for not having any cars. The electric vehicles sneak up on you but generally you can stroll the streets unworried about traffic. We had lunch (rosti) in a small crowded and pleasant cafe, before we did some shopping. We visited the Matterhorn museum. The mountain was first climbed in 1895 by 4 Englishmen and 3 Swiss guides. 3 of the Englishmen and 1 guide died on the descent they only just beat another party to the top. Numerous guides and climbers have died in the area attempting to climb the various slopes. The local churches contain many of their graves. We saw 2 churches one must have been worth a fortune just for its copper roof. The other was quiet and an ideal place for reflection and thought. It was beautifully adorned and painted. The museum shows how life was in the early days and how the area has changed over time. It has many artefacts from the various climbs including personal effects of many that died in the attempts to conquer the summit. At one point we came across a horse drawn carriage used to convey guests to the “Grand Hotel”. The 2 horses were each fitted with their own personal poop-a-scooper to prevent having to clean up after them. We also found doggie poo-a-scooper bags on posts dotted around the town for use as required.
We returned home for a brief time drying out and warming up. We also checked the internet although the connection was somewhat tenuous. Then we headed out and had dinner at a small restaurant. Quiet and very pleasant with good food. Syd had pizza while I enjoyed a large stack of garlic prawns brought to the table on a long metal skewer. Delicious. Outside, you could see the snow line just above the area we had climbed this morning covering the rocks and trees. Then darkness descended. We continued to amble along the streets, the only ones out at the time (2000hrs). As we passed the church we noted some gravesites had candles in red glass covers glowing in the dark. We headed back to the hotel and did some more housekeeping. Off to sleep.

Thursday 27/09/2007
Awoke to heavy snow falling all around. The rooves were white and the trees laden with snow. The town looked totally transformed. It was the alpine village as described in brochures. We had breakfast and strolled into town again. You couldn’t see much so it wasn’t worth going up the mountain. Bought a few nick nacks and did some more window shopping. We wandered the streets again and saw the town from a different perspective, now white and disguised. It continued to snow. It was zero degrees in town and minus 13 up the slopes. Surprisingly it didn’t feel very cold at all, despite having sent all our cold weather gear back home.
We wanted a quick lunch and ducked into McDonalds. 3 cheeseburgers and 2 cokes with a serve of fries costing 20 dollars. All the town labourers were there so it probably was the cheapest meal in town.
The snow eased somewhat but we headed back to our hotel to thaw out. We caught up on mail etc as we had access to the internet at last. Also did some letters and washing. Good to have some spare time for housekeeping duties.
We had dinner in a local pub. This time we increased the average age by 20 years. I think we found the local meeting place of the guides and young active set by mistake. The snow had stopped when we left and the cloud had lifted somewhat. Perhaps the weather will improve from here. We hope so at least!!

Friday 28/09/2007
As we awoke the sun started to poke its head through the clouds. Just our luck! The clouds parted somewhat and some of the mountain tops became visible but not the Matterhorn. Some of the snow had melted but it was still highly attractive. We had breakfast and again packed before catching the Hotel taxi to the station. We had a brief wait before the train set off. Our destination was the first stop that is, Tasch. Our luggage got lost under a pile of other suitcases and come the time to alight we had to repack the whole lot as we were the only ones getting off. We only had to walk across the street to pick up the hire car. It was somewhat spooky to drive on the right side of the road especially on the narrow roads with large trucks coming straight at you. We had trouble getting going there is no key as such and the ignition is push start and you must have your foot on the brake or it won’t start at all.
We slowly descended into the valley floor approaching Sierra and then Sion. There were innumerable small vineyards dotting the lower slopes of the valleys floors. They use every possible piece of ground for their vines. There were small towns and villages also dotted along the upper valley ridges and the river banks in the lower slopes. There were also churches and castles on the high points of the towns. In Sion we branched into town and had lunch. We had to park in the shopping centre car park. What a disaster first we couldn’t get out of the carpark and then the shop as several exits were closed because of cleaning. Finally we surfaced on the street. We strolled around again. The tourist information centres only deal with their own area and do nothing to help otherwise. We wandered among the church yards and cobble-stoned back streets. All the time overseen by the castle standing high on the rocky outcrop above the town. Some beautiful old buildings and small lanes and alley ways. We finally retraced our steps back to the shop and then couldn’t find our car. We had to try each level and walk around till we finally found a car that opened with our remote locking device. Off we set again. The clouds started to descend again as we approached Lausanne. The road system is excellent with many freeways and secondary roads. The number of tunnels and large bridges is incalculable. Train tracks criss-cross the countryside. It would seem that the biggest export item should be gravel as there is an untold amount of rock and landslides everywhere. As we bypassed Lausanne it started to rain again. We headed up the next valley using the freeway to allow us to cover the distances more quickly. We decided to stay at Fribourg a university town with a mixture of old and new city areas. We drove to the station seeking the information centre. The centre of the city was busy and crowded. I dropped Syd off and luckily found a parking bay nearby. Parking is chaotic and scarce in most Swiss city centres.
We found accommodation in a basic hotel near to the station. Fortunately it had its own parking area although we couldn’t get into it easily. Not a good day for parking today!! After dropping our gear off we quickly set off for a walk through the old city, attempting to catch the last of the daylight. We found the old town fascinating with lots of beautiful old buildings and small streets and lanes. The skyline is dominated by the church and town hall. Many of the old areas sit atop a cliff that runs along the bank of the Sarine river. The other part of the old town is deep in the valley along the river edge. We saw parts of the old city wall and crossed several bridges, including one enclosed wooden bridge, darting back and forth across the river. The old bridges literally towered over by a couple of more modern structures that are much higher. The views are spectacular with old buildings scattered among the autumn coloured trees now changing colour with the onset of the colder weather. Many older buildings doth the skyline and the valley floor. Every turn brings new unexpected views. Having descended to the river we had to climb our way back to the top of the cliffs. We did so and decided to stop and have dinner in a nearby restaurant to allow ourselves time to recover and gather our breath. Had a good meal (sashimi) and then out onto the streets again. The rain had ceased and we walked past the old church and the city hall back to the station and then to our hotel.
An early night was the order of the day. We have booked accommodation in Interlarken tomorrow but hope to see something of Bern before we get there. We’ll see. Hopefully we will be able to get to see some of the mountain tops!!!!!!!!

Saturday 29/09/2007

We awoke to bright blue skies, rekindling our enthusiasm. We had slept quite well. We had breakfast and quickly packed, keen to get on and begin our day. We actually managed to get out of the carpark without any problem and took a brief drive around some of the areas we had explored last night, this time, with the benefit of the sunshine! We returned to our starting point only to realise that we had to retrace our steps yet again in order to get to Bern. Bern proved to be a highly attractive city. It is a UNESCO listed and protected site. It is the capital but is small (like Canberra to some extent) for that role(population 130,000). It has a highly attractive old city centre. No cars are allowed so we had to park at the station and walk in. Not a big problem. We managed to follow the directions and arrived at the station successfully. The centre of town is undergoing restoration as is the house of Parliament.
We found the information centre and started a walking tour. We walked along the streets that are lined by covered walkways, off which spring numerous arcades filled with upmarket shops. At the sides of the streets are many cellar doors which open and expose shops, bars and storage areas. There are numerous fountains, most topped by statues. The centre of the town is dominated by the clock tower (Zytglogge) which is as much a symbol of Bern as is the bear. One face of the clock shows a 24 hour clock, the 12 hours of daylight, the position of the sun and the days of the week, date and month and phases of the moon as well as the elevation of the sun above the horizon. The current clock replaces an earlier version which dated back to 1405. The current clock mechanism was installed in 1530 and is still complete and functioning. So much for Swiss efficiency and time pieces!!! The original clock tower was built as part of the city wall in 1218 and was made into a prison for prostitutes who made a living servicing the clergy. It was destroyed by fire and the current clock tower and mechanism was then built.
We strolled through the markets similar to any elsewhere but the presentation of the food and plants was unique. There didn’t seem to be much that was “home grown” as such. We strolled down the old streets first developed in medieval times. The adornment of the shop fronts and buildings was quite individual and very different to home in Australia. There were figures mounted on the walls and pedestals indicating the location of the various craft guilds. The stonemasons, bricklayers and carpenters are represented. We passed the town hall and the Catholic church built in 1858. We also visited a pharmacy that has functioned in that role continuously since 1571. We enquired of its past and the current chemist was keen to relate the history and provided information relating to the shop, including a list of all the pharmacists that have worked there. We had lunch, and headed on. We crossed the river Aare using a low bridge and viewed some of the more modern more expensive houses in town. We viewed the bear pits (Barengraben) with a couple of brown bears which date back many years (to the 16th century in fact)and are somewhat antiquated and old fashioned. We recrossed the river heading back into the old part of town. The views were spectacular with the autumn colours and the terraced buildings. We reached the Munster, late Gothic (work began in 1421) in origin. The tower is the highest in Switzerland, but was under renovation. We walked along the terraces at the back of the church and the casino which afforded great views of the distant Alps and snow covered peaks. The stained glass windows, the baroque fascades on the exterior, the painted ceilings and organ as well as the old carved seats are impressive. Some of the seats are dated in the 1600s and some are intricately carved. Quite awe inspiring! We stopped to take in the views of the Alps again and passed the houses of Parliament before returning to the station and recovering our car without incident. We are learning and are victims of experience.

Sunday 30/09/2007

Thwarted by the weather again!! The sky was dark and it was raining again as we woke. So a change of plan was needed. You couldn’t see the mountains initially. We had breakfast and then donned our wet weather gear. We strolled the street down to Interlaken West stopping and checking out the shops on the way. There were paragliders still dropping into the valley through the clouds. There were cows right on the main street munching away the sound of cow bells echoed through the streets. The whole area is attractive with small pretty gardens and trees and some attractive older houses. The town is set in the canal/rivers that run between the two lakes. Slowly the rain eased and the clouds thinned. We returned to Interlaken Ost and had a coffee stopping briefly at our hotel to unload wet weather gear. We wandered to a nearby funicular railway called the HarderKulm. It rose steeply up the side of the hill near our hotel to a height of 4337 feet.
The climb was steep and traversed steep cliffs and forest areas, emerging on the top of the “hill”. This afforded us spectacular views of the Eiger, Monch and Jungfrau mountains. The sun was shining but the mountain tops were still cloud covered. We strolled around and had something light to eat. This allowed the clouds to clear and we were able to get great views of the whole mountain range. The Alps dwarf the lower foothills but the valleys are equally beautiful and attractive. Looking down on the lakes and towns in the green valleys below was very impressive. Everything looks so tiny! We saw the airport where the recent air races were held and plotted the course of the train which goes to the the Jungfrau. We could also watch he boats on the lake cruises. This was offset by the changing colours of autumn. We returned to our hotel briefly before walking into town for dinner and then retiring. Up early in the morning.

Monday 01/10/2007

Up early and had breakfast. A quick breakfast as the sun rose over the hilltops. Ya hoo!! The views were impressive. We packed the car and headed to the station. The queue was enormous and this is the off season! We packed into the train and set off at 0915, The train travelled across the valley floor and headed into the lower hills. We stopped briefly at Wilderswil then started to climb out of the valley floor. Steeper and steeper we went. The tracks now rack and pinion adhering closely to the contour of the sides of the valley.We continued to climb sharply sometimes through concrete protected channels and wound through the forests. The views became more and more spectacular. We looked down on the small towns we had just left and up to the peaks of the higher mountains towering above. The sun glistening off the snow capped peaks and glaciers. We changed trains at Lauterbrunnen. Now there were not enough seats so we had to stand from here. The trains were hot and stuffy. We climbed further and higher the views still improving. We then reached Kleine Schiedegg again changing trains here. This area formed the major location for the film “The Eiger Sanction”. The small station stands at the ridge between two valleys with Grindewald on one side and Wengen / Lauterbrunnen on the other. The station allows great views of both these valleys and the mountains above. The base of the Eiger mountain stands immediately at the side of the town. We were now at the snow line. Still standing in a smaller train again we were now immersed in a tunnel. We continued to climb steeply finally reaching the Jungfrau Joch (the highest rail station in Europe at 3454m). We clambered out and caught the elevator (moving at 6.5m/sec) to the viewing platform. We could look out on the glaciers the tops of the mountains and the valleys far far below. Breathtaking!!!! Many photos taken and sites seen. The Jungfrau stands at 4158m (13842 feet), Monch peaks at 4107m (13475feet), while the Eiger ( not looking so threatening from here) tops 3570m(13028Feet). The temperature was all of 1.5 degrees didn’t feel that cold at all, probably as there was no wind. We got a free beer because we had to stand on the train. Wow!
We got lots of photos and impressive sites imprinted in our memories. Then back into the train and descended to Kleine Schiedegg again, We actually had a seat this time. From here we changed trains and this time descended to Grindewald down the other side of the ridge. We passed the North Face of the Eiger, looking much more threatening and much higher from this angle. Not for this little black duck thank you. The descent was slow but still spectacular as we approached Grindewald. A further change of train was needed. We had an hour at this point so we had a quick bite to eat in a local cafe and then reboarded the train for the final part of our trip back to Interlaken. The last part of the trip was along the flat valley floor affording views of the classic Swiss scenes of wooden houses and barns backed by towering snow capped peaks and fronted by green pastures with cows and streams cutting through them. There were 14 cars on the train and they were all pretty well full. Don’t know how they cope in peak season!!
We got the car going and travelled the 70kms or so to Lucern. The trip was also spectacular passing along 2 lakes and passing over a beautiful pass. The primary production must be bridge and tunnel building. At 1 point we traversed a mountain through a 6 km tunnel. We reached Lucern but with roadworks in progress the sat nav system failed us sending us around in circles retracing our steps after several “recalculating” pronouncements and exclamations. We switched it off and followed our nose finding the hotel eventually. Checked in and found the room comfortable. We had a stroll around not going too far and had dinner in a local Greek restaurant. Home and an early night. Can’t believe our luck not a cloud in the sky all day and what a day it turned out to be. One we will remember for a long time.

Tuesday 02/10/2007

We got up early again and set off for a walk into town. The city was quiet as it was a public holiday. We headed to the old parts of town. The city is identified with the Chapel bridge dating back to the medieval times. It spans the river at the end of the lake. We discovered more small alleys and lanes with plenty more attractive old buildings. We climbed up onto parts of the old city wall affording good views of the city proper. The cycle tracks are readily identifiable by red paint on the roads and they are everywhere with plenty of bikes using them. There were more churches and cafes. We then headed back to the hotel and drove out of Lucern. A much easier task than coming in. We headed along the shores of Lake Lucern heading into the mountains again. We passed through more small villages including the home town of William Tell with a large statue recording his history. We travelled along the smaller roads where possible but sometimes had to use the motorways. We reached Brunnen and then traversed 3 Alpine passes including Nurfenen, Furka and San Gottardo passes. The scenery is spectacular and different in each one. Some areas largely forested and others just ck and snow on the peaks. There were hanging valleys and a couple of large tarns. In places the road tracked the bottom of the U shaped valleys and at other points climbed steeply along the edges and onto the ridges. Lots of snow, while the roads are windy very steep and narrow, made worse driving on the wrong side of the road and always being aware of the steep drop over the edge. There were a large number of motor bikes on the road which were quite dangerous, often overtaking at any point on the road. We stopped frequently, taking in the views and getting some photo opportunities. The army had many of the best view points on the San Gottardo pass which were sites for old fortifications in times past but are used as stores areas and barracks now. Great views, but it might be a tad cold in winter though!
We retraced the Glacier express route in places. Andermatt seemed to be the centre point for each of the 3 trips we undertook. The weather was spectacular the sun shining till late in the afternoon when the clouds started to gather again. After retracing our steps to Andermatt we headed out to Chur again passing through some spectacular valley areas. We hit the freeway at Chur and headed straight on towards Zurich. We reached the city at about 1930 just as it got dark. Again not easy to orientate yourself and find your way. This time the sat nav system got us there to our hotel without too many problems and recalculations. We were slightly out of the city centre in a large hotel fortunately there was parking available
We ate at the hotel. It was much easier and the food was good. Another great day, one not to be forgotten. But all too soon it will be back to work. Alas!!

Wednesday 03/10/2007

Another sunny day. We were able to sleep in a little. Then had breakfast, packed and took the car back to the rental company. Had to head right into the centre of town! Crowded innumerable small streets and lanes running at all sorts of directions with bikes and trams, buses and cars all seemingly out to get you. Survived in one piece and got the car back on time. We then had time to again walk the streets of the old town. Many exclusive shops and fashion stores at every turn and corner dotted with cafes and restaurants. All the streets busy. One of the churches has the largest clock face in Europe. Cars are restricted and it makes access much easier. We again walked the little back streets coming across the town hall churches even climbing one spire of a church built in 1350.This afforded views of the whole city from a great vantage point. One morning’s shopping could cost you an arm and a leg and a whole lot more if you wanted to get going properly. Not for us though! We caught the tram back to our hotel, which was an easier task than the train or taxi. Time for a rest and shower before the chauffer driven car will pick us up at the hotel for the airport. They had confirmed a pick up time already leaving a message at reception. I must say I am impressed with Emirate airways management and organisation. Time to go.

We were taken by chauffeur in a new black Mercedes to the airport. We arrived early and checked in then passed the hours in the airport lounge. Again comfortable not as great a choice of foods though. And the lounge was difficult to find because of a large degree of construction. We boarded our plane for a relatively quick 5 and a half hour flight to Dubai. No problems with the flight though the seats were narrow but had good leg room.

Thursday 04/10/2007

We arrived safely in Dubai at 0630. Passed through customs, slowly I may hasten to add then caught our car to the Burj Al Arab. The hotel itself is amazing almost awe inspiring. You pass through security before you even get to the causeway leading to the hotel. You are greeted by a flock of porters who whisk your luggage away. You are escorted into the hotel lobby and introduced to several staff members. A staff worker was placing hundreds of fresh rose petals under the huge flower arrangements. While asked to be seated copies of passports etc are made and then off you set. Up the escalators past the large fish tanks on either side onto the upper lobby area. It is all marble floored with large seating areas and a large fountain which is wonderfully engineered. It sprays a jet of water 32 metres into the air with no splash onto the surrounding floor. Doing so every hour.The smaller jets and streams of water here, and in the other fountain/waterfall between escalators going up from the lower to upper lobby areas also play wonderful games with changing patterns of sprays and colours. Again the engineering and design is precise and very impressive. There towering above this is the largest hotel atrium in the world. The rooms/suites are set along 2 arms with the large sail area joining the one ends of each wing. The lifts etc are at the base of the v shape formed by these arms. There are large corridors all marble lined with large columns seen at the lower area of the walls. The whole area is brightly coloured but not overdone! There are large mosaics and floor carpets and a gallery of exclusive shops on the upper lobby area. There are also 2 restaurants, curtained off at present, during daylight hours because it is the fasting month of Ramadan. We were taken to the elevators and up to the 4th floor. We were introduced to our floor manager who organises everything for you including money exchange check out etc and escorts you by name to your room each time you return. The place runs on excellent service which is non intrusive and non judgmental. We do not feel like country cousins or pretenders and are warmly welcome by all the staff who are friendly and always have a smile on their faces.
Here we were handed on to Tun, our personal butler who took us to our suite. We had some fresh orange juice and began a 20 minute guided tour of the room. The furnishing is lavish and ornate but not overdone. There is plenty of room. Again the marble floors are great, made from similar marble to that carved by Michelangelo. Every door is thick heavy and made of a combination of woods. You enter the suite and there in front of you is the main lounge with large glass full length windows overlooking the sea. On the right is a guest toilet and then as you enter through the columned portal you have a small business area with fulltime internet access and your own computer. Again luxuriously appointed. Gold leaf embossed letter head paper. Next to the desk is a small bar area with access to tea and coffee making facilities. There is a choice of 9 different coffees and various teas. Immediately adjacent to this is a small dining table where you can request your personal butler to bring your room service meal to. Behind this is a large gold plated TV and Hi Fi sound system. Choice of 95 TV channels. There is also a DVD and video if required. There are paintings on all the walls. Then, in front of the windows is a large sofa, which is able to seat 6 comfortably. Fresh flowers including red roses and orchids are on the bar and next to the sofa and upstairs as well. There are 10 phones in the suite. We had a choice of 157 newspapers from the newspaper menu and could activate the do not disturb sign and curtains from the TV. There is piped music to all areas and dimming lights to all rooms. The carpet for the main lower room and upper bedroom is individual and not off the roll stuff. There are several more chairs a Chez lounge and several tables in the lounge area. Then back to the entry area there is a small marble patio and the stairs lead to the left up to the upper level. There is a chandelier above you. You climb the marble stairs and in front of you is the powder room, to your right the bathroom and on the left the bedroom. The bedroom is large airy and has a king size, most comfortable bed. There is even a pillow menu. There are again full length windows immediately in front of you and again with sea views looking along the beach on out to Palm Island. There is a comfortable sofa as well and a second TV. The bathroom is huge. The shower is large with mosaic walls and floor. There is a spa and 2 hand basins with complimentary toiletries for him and her. The towels are ginormous being taller than Syd. The taps, toilet knobs and toilet paper and tissue dispenser are all gold. There are fresh flower arrangements in both the bath room and bedroom. The lighting is excellent with down lights, recessed lights on the ceiling margins and a large number of other lamps and a good use of large mirrors. There is a large storage cupboard and full services. There is a complimentary bottle of wine (Australian) and free nibblies in leather boxes and a large platter of fresh fruit to use. There is a private fax for each suite, 2 mini bars, one downstairs one in the bedroom. Complimentary toiletries. Every time you step out of the room they come in and clean and reorganise everything drying the shower replacing the bottle of drinking water etc all ready for you to return. They will organise mail and trips. There is a clock projected onto the wall above the stairs visible to anyone on the upper level landing. When the light go out this disappears. There are 8 “down lights” along the stairs and the air conditioning is controlled into several zones easily controlled individually. The whole thing is tastefully and well done obviously at great cost. As in life you get what you pay for. We had breakfast in the lobby restaurant. The choices were amazing. 8 cereals, 3 types milk, untold variations of meats and hot/cold dishes. There were large flower arrangements everywhere roses and lilies as well as orchids. Dates formed the trunk of artificial palm trees There were salads, fish and prawns, nuts of all types, a huge variety of breads champagne 6 fresh juices. Toast and tea or coffee arrived instantly as you sat. These were changed regularly to ensure they were still hot. Every time you left your seat it was readjusted and your serviette folded.
Having oriented ourselves we settled in a bit, just in time for a car to pick us up for the flight we had arranged over Dubai in a seaplane. We rolled down to the lobby and were greeted by a chauffeur and a large, very large, stretch limousine with bar etc just for the 2 of us. Off we went and were dropped off at the sea plane base some 45 minutes later. The beauracrats of the aviation department demanded we have passport copies made and a boarding pass be issued and a security check performed. There were only the 2 of us and we were getting onto a small plane the size of a Cessna. We left from a golf course resort and were taken to the plane by golf buggy. Our pilot was a Kiwi. We taxied out to open water and took off, surprisingly smoothly. We travelled along the coast passing the Palm Dubai with all its buildings some completed some nearing that stage. We circled around the Burj Al Arab inspirational standing slightly off the coast itself. There is a 1.5 mile air space exclusion zone since 09/11. We travelled past the Burj Dubai the tallest building in the world >800metres high. There was no one else on the flight so we were able to jump around from seat to seat to get the best vantage points. There is a huge amount of development and building underway. Previously we saw this from ground level, quite different though, from the air. We went down town along the creek skirting the international airport and past all the inner city areas and the port. There is the largest aluminium smelter in the world also the largest man made container port in the world. Soon the tallest building will be overtaken by another and the largest airport etc will be built. Marvellous what you can do with endless amounts of money. We saw the large dry docks where many oil tankers are repaired. Then we passed “the world island” being developed offshore. We crossed Palm Island again, with the large hotel at its peak almost finished. We then passed Palm Dumeira which is not as well developed yet. It will be larger than Palm Island when completed though. We touched down again smoothly and were taken back by our limo to the Hotel. The driver had just had to sit and wait for us, about an hour or so.
We had a quiet afternoon cataloguing all the wonderful things around us and in the hotel lobby. We had a nap, which didn’t help too much, but it was better than nothing. We wandered around the lobby looking at all the shops and water fountains and the world go by. We strolled around the outside of the buildings as the sun set. The outside of the structure is as spectacular as the inside, in many ways, with its restaurant suspended 200metres above the sea and the helicopter landing pad. The side wings are suspended by large metal struts designed for the purpose. We returned inside and prepared for dinner.
We descended to the lobby and were escorted to the lift descending to the lower level. We emerged in the midst of a large aquarium (at least the outside of the aquarium). We had a window side seat and could watch all the fish pass by and smile at their antics as they probably were at us as well. The service was impeccable. You did not wait for anything. The food delicious and presented perfectly!!! Syd had baked oysters in cream sauce while I had natural oysters in vinegar sauce. Then I had grilled lobster which was absolutely delicious and Syd had scallops. These were accompanied by a small plate of vegetables and potato gratin. Filling, but not too much so!! There was a sorbet between courses and cold towels before entree and after the main course. The wine list was enormous, we settled on a West Australian chardonnay which was very nice. Your glass was topped up almost after every mouthful as was your water glass. The people assisting were friendly and more than helpful. Then there were the fish also worthy of comment. The number and variation was amazing there were small sharks, large groper and a variety of other colourful fish each with a different swimming stroke. Quite entertaining and saved on dinner conversation. We were finished by 2200 and returned to our room and crashed. Slept well the bed enormous and extremely comfortable despite the huge ceiling mirror.
Friday 05/10/2007

This morning was a relatively slow start. Syd went for breakfast I showered and got ready to go out. We visited the nearby resort and shopping centre which is based on Venice. There are numerous buildings and apartments built around 3.5 km of waterway in the shape of canals. At the centre is the shopping area which resembles the old souk (market) areas. Obviously expensive and must have cost a bucket to develop. We went on a short tour of the canal by abra then wandered around the shopping areas. All the restaurants were closed because of Ramadan. It would be interesting when it’s busy or at night when the restaurants are open. It is only 400 metres from our hotel. Syd caught the golf buggy back while I walked. Our room had been cleaned and readied for our return again. We had a quiet afternoon being tired and just enjoyed the views and stopping for a while. As yesterday we received a tray of complimentary snacks. We again went for a stroll around the hotel grounds at sunset.